Coming from the pandemic lockdowns and the unfortunate travel restrictions, many have chosen Japan as the first country to escape to once borders were opened. It comes as no surprise that in 2023, Japan welcomed almost 20 million tourists! It is, after all, a country with a lot to offer and one that’s worth coming back to, for its picturesque views (too many to mention!), its bevy of Japanese food and drinks that are impossible to resist (and forget, to be honest!), the cultural hotspots (we love them equally: the historical sites and anime and video game hubs!), and yes, of course, the beauty buys.
On TikTok and Instagram, the travel and beauty content creators who’ve come to the Land of the Rising Sun always advise travelers to bring an empty suitcase with them, take their passports with them everywhere they go, and always have cash on hand. That’s because Japan has a lot to offer when it comes to shopping, especially in the beauty space—and they mean serious business.
Allow us to indulge you as we explore what makes Japan such an exciting beauty destination, all the Japanese beauty trends to try, and the very stores you need to know if you’re gearing up for your next beauty haul.
First Stop: Japan’s History of Beauty
Like the Western world, Japan has a rich beauty history dating back to 300 A.D. The chronicles of Kojiki and Nihon Shoki—historical books that detail ancient Japanese customs, myths, and culture—disclose that red pigments were already used for face painting in Japan. Lead-based white face powder, or oshiroi, became popular during this period. In the sixth century, Japan began to import cosmetic items like cheek colors and face powders from China and Korea.
During the Heian period, Japan veered away from Chinese beauty influences and established its own standards of beauty: Long, straight hair, white face powder, plucked brows, and blackened teeth became all the rage with Japan’s nobility. And in the Muromachi period, these beauty trends and products became accessible to the urban Japanese people.
In the Edo period, women became concerned with keeping a fair complexion using white face powder, exemplifying the Japanese proverb: “A white complexion is powerful enough to hide seven faults.” Meanwhile, red pigments were still used to color the cheeks and lips, and during the late Edo period, a more heavy-handed application of lipstick became trendy. This caused safflowers, which the pigments were extracted from, to become exponentially more expensive. Blackening the teeth and shaving the eyebrows also became rites of passage for women, with the former usually practiced right before or following their weddings, and the latter done once they’ve had their first child.
It was also during this period that fair skin became a popular trend even among commoners. The 1813 manual Miyako Fūzoku Kewaiden, or A Handbook of Cosmetics in the Capital, shared ways to make one’s skin naturally and beautifully white. Facial cleansing, masks made from minerals, and herbal acne treatments are just some of the techniques outlined in this book. This book had been reprinted until 1923, and it brought to attention skincare techniques and ingredients to the many classes of women in Japan.
The Meiji period saw the modernization of Japanese beauty standards, with the practice of teeth blackening being outlawed by an official government decree (even Empress Meiji gave up the practice in 1873), and the development of face powders that weren’t made with lead to avoid lead poisoning. Women also started to use rouge to color their ears and the outer corners of their eyes red. It was also during the Meiji period that Arinobu Fukuhara established Tokyo’s first Western-style pharmacy: Shiseido
During the Taisho era, beauty standards shifted to favor a more natural beauty look. Women were entering the workforce and gravitated toward modern conveniences like tube lipsticks and tinted face powders. Cosmetics also became more Westernized, and after World War II, Japan was heavily influenced by American cosmetics.
Now, Japanese cosmetics can be characterized by the marriage of tradition and innovation. Japanese brands Shiseido, Kosé, and Tatcha exemplify this well, with their faithfulness to traditional Japanese ingredients and techniques merged with and improved by scientific research and innovation.
Next Up: When Eastern Tradition Meets Western Technology
Japan’s Ministry of Health strictly regulates the country’s cosmetics industry, and because of this, J-beauty products have been lauded for their safety, efficacy, and quality. Many products that claim to have anti-aging benefits, skin-brightening benefits, and anti-acne benefits have to go through a rigorous approval process, making them a lot more reliable to consumers. But this doesn’t mean that Japanese cosmetics companies have strayed from tradition and Japanese philosophy in favor of more Western techniques and formulations. In fact, J-beauty cosmetics often merge Eastern philosophy and history with Western science and technology, adapting its tradition to the modern world.
Take, for example, the importance of bright, translucent skin in Japanese culture. We are again reminded of the proverb “A white complexion is powerful enough to hide seven faults,” and we can even see in the traditional geisha makeup style that the skin is whitened using a special wax or powder. While it isn’t common for the regular Japanese consumer to sport white face paint while they’re out and about, they might have several items in their skincare routine that can fade dark spots, even out the skin tone, and brighten the complexion.
Behind the scenes, Japanese cosmetics companies develop and manufacture products to suit these consumer needs—using Western technology to innovate and honor traditional Japanese ingredients and formulations. Going through Japanese cosmetics counters, you might see skin-brightening products that make use of fermented soy, or moisturizing lotions formulated from hatomugi or Job’s tears, a plant that has been utilized by Japan since ancient times.
Many of Japan’s cosmetics companies operate like this. Shiseido, for instance, works under the philosophy of dynamic harmony, which takes two contrasting or complementary ideas and turns them into an approach to research and development. Kosé also does rigorous research in skin care, making sure that active ingredients are dispersed evenly and effectively through the skin. Meanwhile, Kao has analyzed the three-dimensional face measurements of Japanese women of all ages to predict aging appearance and patterns. Eventually, they utilize the information they have learned from this research and apply it to the products they’ll be coming out with.
Industry leaders like Shiseido, Kosé, and Kao, which already have their foothold in the Western prestige market, also have numerous mass-market brands under them in Japan. This means that the affordable, abundant brands you can easily find in Japanese drug stores and department stores all have access to and have been influenced by their umbrella companies’ R&D, making them just as efficacious as their prestige brand counterparts.
Fast Forward: Japan’s Culture of Beauty Through Trends
Having a groomed appearance is very important to Japanese people. It is considered good manners to look put together before leaving the house. A typical everyday makeup look for a Japanese person can look like even skin, natural brows, pink cheeks, long, curled lashes, and glossy stained lips. They may also emphasize their aegyo-sal, a Korean term that refers to the fat under the eyes. Doing this can make one look younger and more approachable.
There are also several different makeup looks that Japanese people have in their arsenal. These are just some of them:
Suppin Makeup
Suppin means no makeup or a person with an unmade face, so this look is all about a no-makeup makeup look. One can use makeup to just short of it being noticeable, and this look is supposed to emphasize the natural features while also covering up blemishes, dark circles, or dark spots. A popular product that Japanese people turn to for concealing imperfections is the Calypso Magic Concealer, which has been a consistent beauty award winner.
Ulzzang Makeup
In Japan, this popular Korean makeup trend has been adapted to Japanese sensibilities. This makeup look has a “less is more” approach, using natural tones to emphasize the facial features. The base will usually match the natural skin tone—as compared to a lighter skin tone in Korea—and one might also choose to wear false lashes. Typically, the aegyo-sal is also emphasized, usually with soft glitters and shimmery shades. Japanese brands have also created products specifically for the aegyo-sal, like the Canmake Under-Eye Palette and the Heroine Make Secret Shading Eyeliner.
Harajuku Makeup
Popularized by Harajuku’s street performers, this makeup look is bold, vibrant, and ultra-feminine. It’s characterized by colorful eye makeup, thick liner, opaque lips, and facial adornments like gemstones and stickers. People who sport this look are also no strangers to glitter, and products like the Cezanne Glow Liquid Liner, the Cipi Cipi Glitter Illumination Liner, and the Visée Prism Venus Eyes are great options for a sparkly look.
Gyaru Makeup
Gyaru is the transliteration for the word “gal,” and this look takes inspiration from Western-style makeup looks applied to Japanese features. The main elements of this look include a bold eye makeup with long, false lashes, a fake tan, straight brows, and pink or neutral lips. The eyes are the main focal point, and the eye makeup is usually drawn to make them look bigger and rounder. To emphasize the lashes, products like Opera My Lash Advanced Mascara or Diamond Lash False Upper Eyelash in Celebrity Eye are key.
Geisha Makeup
This look is typically worn by traditional Japanese female entertainers. The look is comprised of white skin—achieved through the use of oshiroi or white powder, black eyeliner, red eyeshadow, and red lipstick. In the 17th century, geishas would make themselves up like this because it made their skin look like porcelain in the dim light. In this modern age, oshiroi is no longer made out of poisonous lead, and you can easily find white face powders to create geisha or kabuki makeup looks, like the Kona Oshiroi Pure White Pro Stage Makeup Face Powder.
Final Destination: A Practical Approach to Shopping
Shopping for Japanese brands that are new to you can be exciting in itself, but there are a few other factors that make shopping in Japan fun, easy, and smart:
Tax-Free Shopping
Many retail stores cater to foreigners through tax-free shopping. This means that the tax will be deducted from your total—all you would need to do is show the store attendant your passport. Some counters automatically deduct taxes, but some have special counters you have to go to to get your tax refund. There are usually signs that will say a store is tax-free, but if you’re not sure, you can always ask.
Ranked Beauty
While shopping in Japan, you may notice that some products sport stickers mentioning that they’re LDK The Beauty award winners or @COSME award winners. These can be super helpful if you’re not sure what to pick up and you want tried, tested, and loved products. These awards are based on people’s choices, so you can rest assured that products with these stickers are well-loved in Japan.
Affordable Options
Even without tax-free shopping, Japanese cosmetics are relatively affordable. For Japanese people, expensive doesn’t always mean better, and this mindset is to offer what drives local manufacturing industries to produce goods while keeping prices down. According to Mitsue Konishi, senior innovation analyst at Canadean, “Japanese consumers are very much used to decent quality products even if they’re cheaply priced. And, while higher-end options are on offer, a premium price point does not have a great influence on their trust level of products.”
Japan-Only Items
A handful of international makeup brands have Japan-only items. For instance, rom&nd has a few exclusive shades for its lip products and eyeshadow palettes that can only be found in Japan. Meanwhile, NARS and Laura Mercier carry cushion makeup you can only find in Japan and Korea.
Just Landed: The Makeup, Skincare, and Haircare Hotspots To Visit
If you’re not sure where to start your shopping journey in Japan, these are just some stores we recommend you hit up. Happy shopping!
@COSME Tokyo Flagship Store
Located in the trendy district of Harajuku, Tokyo, @COSME is the mecca of all things beauty in Japan. But before it opened its doors in 2020, @COSME was already a well-known website containing beauty news, reviews, and most famously, rankings. Users chime in on their favorite products and the most highly ranked ones receive @COSME’s seal of approval. The Harajuku store is comprised of three floors, and the first thing you’ll see is a dome containing all the Best Cosmetics Awards winners. Lining the walls are other highly-ranked cosmetics based on sales of the Tokyo store. At @COSME, you can find Japanese cosmetics of all price ranges, as well as international brands like NARS, Laura Mercier, Guerlain, and Dior Beauty. In September 2023, @COSME opened another flagship store in Osaka—complete with a dome of award winners and highly-ranked products, just like in its Harajuku store.
Don Quijote
Don Quijote, or Donki, is one of Japan’s biggest retail and discount store chains, with over 600 locations throughout the country. It was first established in 1980 as Just Co., a retail-turned-wholesale store. In 1989, it opened its first branch in Fuchu under its new name Don Quijote, and with this, it pivoted once again into a retail store.
The store experience can be overwhelming, to say the least, with floor-to-ceiling displays and a wide arrange of products and goods to choose from, from groceries to secondhand designer accessories to, of course, cosmetics. Here, you’ll be able to find a lot of drugstore Japanese brands, like Kate Tokyo, Melano CC, Heroine Make, SoftyMo, and more. There are even Chinese brands like Flower Knows and Judy Doll and Korean brands like TirTir, rom&nd, and Missha.
Aeon Style
Aeon Co., Ltd. is one of Japan’s largest retail holdings companies, and under its belt are Aeon malls and shopping centers, MaxValu grocery stores, and Ministop convenience stores, just to name a few. Much like our own local SM shopping malls, Aeon malls have their department stores called Aeon Style. On its shelves are drugstore and midrange beauty brands, like Cezanne, Canmake, Decorté, MAQuillAGE, Anessa, Hado Labo, and more. You’ll also find Chinese and Korean brands like Forencos and Etude House there.
Plaza
Plaza is a miscellaneous goods store with its roots dating back to April 1966 in Ginza, Tokyo. There are now over 112 Plaza stores in Japan and they sell snacks, home goods, accessories, fragrances, haircare, skincare, and makeup. Besides Japanese beauty brands, they stock international drugstore brands like La Roche-Posay, Maybelline, and Revlon, too.
Loft
Like Plaza, Loft is another specialty store that sells miscellaneous goods, including cosmetics. Their shelves are arranged to entice consumers, having them go through their carefully edited shelves and seasonal displays, prolonging their stay in the store. Their cosmetics aisles feature mostly drugstore Japanese brands like Excel, &Honey, Fiancée, and Kiss Me, as well as Korean and Chinese brands. They also have special displays that feature natural, clean Japanese beauty.
Matsumoto Kiyoshi
Matsumoto Kiyoshi is a drugstore chain that sells pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, household items, and food. Stores can be found in every prefecture of Japan and this is one of the best places to bulk buy products. Prices usually aren’t as marked up as other stores and they have a wide selection of drugstore makeup, hair care, and skincare. We recommend stocking up on sunscreen here, like Bioré, Skin Aqua, and Kosé Suncut.
Mitsukoshi Isetan
For luxury beauty shopping, head to one of the department stores under the Mitsukoshi Isetan Group. They feature international brands like Chanel, Dior, Estée Lauder, Dyson, and Givenchy, as well as Japanese luxury beauty brands like Clé de Peau Beauté, Shu Uemura, Shiseido, and SK-II. To get the full experience of the department store’s architectural elegance, shop at Nihombashi Mitsukoshi Main Store or Ginza Mitsukoshi.
Quick Stop: Our Favorite Finds
Need an actual list of top picks to jumpstart your J-beauty shopping spree? Here are just some of the products we’ve bought ourselves.
MAQuillAGE Dramatic Skin Sensor Base NEO
This tinted primer can smooth the skin, blur pores, and keep sebum at bay thanks to its Urusara Sensor Coat, which can adjust the skin’s moisture levels depending on humidity. It’s also equipped with SPF50+ and PA++++, and you can wear it under makeup or on its own. It comes in three shades: Nudie Beige for a natural finish, Lavender for correcting sallowness and dullness, and Mint for correcting redness. This popular primer also won the 2023 Mid Year @COSME The Best Cosmetics Award for Best Primer.
Dejavu Lasting Fine E Short Brush Liquid Eyeliner
This liner ticks off all the boxes: pigmented, waterproof, long-lasting, and smudge-proof. But one of its best features is its 5mm brush tip. The extra short brush allows you to draw thin, fine lines and get in the hard-to-reach places on the lash line.
La Roche-Posay Uvidea Anthelios Tone-Up Rosy Cream SPF 50+ PA++++
While La Roche-Posay isn’t a Japanese brand, it has Japan-exclusive products, and this is just one of the sunscreens that the locals gravitate towards. Aside from its sun protection, it also protects against pollution and everyday stressors. You can also wear it as a makeup base, but a lot of people wear it on its own since it can brighten the skin and enhance the complexion.
Shiseido Aura Dew Prism Illuminator Pico
These limited-edition, Japan-only, multi-purpose powders were inspired by the four seasons and how they overlap, bringing out the delicate colors found in Japan’s scenery. How amazing is that? They can be used on their own or layered over the top of one another for a unique, iridescent shade. Wear them on your eyes for a subtle glow or on your cheeks as a blush or highlighter.
Canmake Quick Lash Curler
This product is meant to coat your mascara to make it waterproof and to enhance the curl of your lashes, but we also love wearing it on its own. Unlike other mascaras, it has a comb applicator that does a great job of separating the lashes and evenly coating them with the product. The result is long, volumized, curled, and defined lashes.
Calypso Magic Concealer
A must in achieving the suppin makeup look, this is the go-to product of Japanese locals when it comes to concealers. We mentioned it’s a regular beauty awards winner—so we’ve tried it ourselves and, well, it truly works like magic!
Canmake Under-Eye Palette
It’s the secret to turning Japanese! Kidding aside, this palette works wonders in enhancing the aegyo-sal, giving a look that’s youthful, fun, and fresh.
Cezanne Glow Liquid Liner
The Japanese can’t get enough of glitter, and to be honest, we’ve become converts, too. This glowy liquid liner makes putting on a face extra, extra fun.
Heroine Make Secret Shading Eyeliner
These liners are a dream. Available in natural-looking shades, we mentioned it’s great for highlighting the aegyo-sal but also good for enhancing your lids or filling in your brows.
