Beauty is full of buzzwords—but which ingredients truly deliver? Welcome to Ingredient Lab, your guide to the science behind the formulas. In this edition, we’re giving hyaluronic acid the attention it deserves—as your skin’s ultimate thirst-quencher.
Pick a product from your vanity—a serum, a moisturizer, an eye cream, or even a sheet mask. Chances are, at least one (if not all) contains a widely popular skincare ingredient celebrated for its hydrating powers: hyaluronic acid.
Unlike other acids in the skincare dictionary (think AHAs, BHAs, and even PHAs), this particular one, nicknamed “HA,” is beloved and sought-after, not feared. Why? Because it’s known to be gentle and non-irritating for most skin types, and doesn’t come with the side effects commonly associated with acid use, like stinging, peeling, or redness. On the contrary, it keeps skin nourished, plump, and healthy-looking. But did you know that it was only in the early 2000s that HA started gaining traction as a beauty ingredient?
Hyaluronic acid was first discovered in 1934 by German scientists Karl Meyer and John Palmer in the transparent, gelatinous tissue of a cow’s eye (yes, a cow). In the decades that followed, researchers started exploring its water-binding and lubricating properties, especially after finding it in human joints, skin, and connective tissues. By the 1980s and ’90s, HA had become a staple in orthopedics for joint lubrication and wound healing.
When the 2000s rolled around, HA made the leap from medical applications to skincare and beauty, appearing in dermal fillers and topical products thanks to its remarkable ability to retain water—holding up to 1,000 times its weight in water under ideal conditions. While some experts dispute that figure, there’s no question that it’s an exceptionally powerful hydrator.
Fast-forward to today, and HA’s popularity shows no signs of slowing down. It’s practically everywhere, from skincare and makeup (it’s even in the new Louis Vuitton lipsticks) to haircare products.
So What Exactly is Hyaluronic Acid?
“Hyaluronic Acid (HA) is a type of sugar molecule, naturally found in our body,” says Dr. Jarische Lao-Ang, a board-certified dermatologist also known as @thedermamamaph on social media. You read that right—it’s sugar, more specifically a glycosaminoglycan, a type of polysaccharide (or a long chain of sugar molecules) that is naturally occurring in our skin, eyes, and joints.
Even if it’s derived from plant sugars, hyaluronic acid does not function like dietary sugar in the body. Instead, its primary function is to act as a lubricant and moisture-retainer. 
These days, hyaluronic acid in skincare is typically produced by fermenting plant sugars with the help of bacteria, making it a safe, vegan, and widely accessible ingredient. In the past, it was often taken from animal sources (particularly rooster combs), but that method is now rarely used outside of some medical treatments. That said, even if it’s derived from plant sugars, HA does not function like dietary sugar in the body. Instead, its primary job is to act as a lubricant and moisture-retainer.
“It is also a humectant that hydrates the skin,” adds Dr. Lao-Ang. A humectant, also known as a hygroscopic ingredient, attracts and retains moisture from the air. “It binds water like a sponge, which keeps the skin hydrated. In the deeper layer, it helps give support to our skin.”
Given its powerful ability to attract and retain moisture, it’s no surprise that hyaluronic acid is considered a gold-standard ingredient for hydration. “As our skin matures, the natural production of HA declines, leading to dryness and loss of volume,” says Dr. Lao-Ang. That’s why supplementing with hyaluronic acid through skincare can be highly beneficial. Best of all, it’s gentle and suitable for all skin types.
“It is also safe to be used with almost every other skincare ingredient and can be formulated into many products—wash, serums, moisturizers, masks,” adds Dr. Lao-Ang.
Here’s a quick rundown of HA benefits for your skin:
- It’s a natural hydrator. Hyaluronic acid works as your skin’s moisture magnet—it pulls in water and locks in hydration, making it an essential ally, especially for those struggling with skin dryness.
- It reduces fine lines and wrinkles: HA helps maintain skin’s smoothness by plumping it with hydration, minimizing the signs of aging, such as visible lines and wrinkles.
- It improves the skin’s elasticity. Hydrated skin is more flexible and resilient than dry skin, and has a firmer and more durable skin structure.
- It soothes skin. Thanks to its hydrating and anti-inflammatory powers, HA helps calm irritation and supports skin prone to conditions like eczema or sensitivity.
- It aids in wound healing. It aids in the repair of damaged skin by maintaining a moist environment (ideal for recovery), reducing inflammation, and improving blood flow. It also promotes barrier repair for stronger skin.
- It improves skin’s glow: When skin is well-hydrated, it looks visibly healthier, fresher, and more radiant.
Not All HAs Are the Same
Hyaluronic acid comes in different molecular weights, and each works differently. “The key difference is the size of the molecules, which determines how deeply it can penetrate the skin,” says Dr. Lao-Ang.
High-Molecular-Weight (HMW) HA
These have large molecules (1,000–1,500 kDa or kilodaltons) that are too big to penetrate deeply into the skin, so they stay on the skin’s surface. According to Dr. Lao-Ang, their primary function is to “form a hydrating film to lessen trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL).” HMW HA is also helpful in delivering that instant plumping and smoothing effect.
Medium-Molecular-Weight (MMW) HA
Featuring mid-range molecules (250–1,000 kDa), they can “penetrate between the surface and mid-layers of the epidermis,” says Dr. Lao-Ang. This means they can offer hydration below the surface for longer-lasting moisture.
Low-Molecular-Weight (LMW) HA
These have very small molecules (less than 250 kDa), allowing them to penetrate much deeper into the skin—up to the bottom of the epidermis (or skin’s outer layer) and potentially into the dermis. “Emerging research suggests LMW HA may help support the skin’s own HA production,” says Dr. Lao-Ang, who adds that it also offers antioxidant benefits.
Given these distinctions, studies show that hyaluronic acid in the 50 to 1,000 kDa range as the most beneficial for the skin, while those within the 50 to 130 kDa range are considered the best for smoothing out wrinkles and roughness. On the flip side, anything above 1,000 kDa won’t make much of a difference, while fragments smaller than 50 kDa may actually trigger inflammation.
How to Choose What’s Right For You
Regardless of the weight, all forms of HA are generally effective—it’s just a matter of matching the type to your skin concern. If you have dry or dehydrated skin, high-molecular-weight HA works best as it locks in surface moisture and prevents water loss. For dull skin or complexions lacking glow, medium-molecular-weight HA penetrates deeper to provide lasting hydration and improved radiance.
Mature or aging skin can benefit most from low-molecular-weight HA, which helps support elasticity and may even stimulate natural HA production. Those with sensitive skin, meanwhile, are better off with medium- to high-molecular-weight HA, since the smaller molecules of low-molecular weight HA can sometimes irritate a compromised barrier. For targeting multiple concerns, you can also look for mixed-weight HA formulations, which hydrate different layers of the skin at once for more comprehensive results.
But here’s the tricky part: A lot of brands and products don’t exactly specify the molecular weight of hyaluronic acid on the label. So how do you know if it’s high, medium, low, or mixed-weight?
A little cheat sheet when checking the ingredient list: If it simply says Hyaluronic Acid, it’s often the high-molecular-weight form. If it says Sodium Hyaluronate, it’s actually the salt form of HA—it’s smaller, more stable, and penetrates more easily into the skin (usually in the low-to-medium molecular weight range). If it says Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, take your cue from the word hydrolyzed (meaning broken down into smaller fragments)—this typically means it’s low-molecular-weight.
Topical vs. Injectable HA: Which is Better?
Before exploding as a star ingredient in skincare, hyaluronic acid had long been used in clinics for professional treatments—most notably dermal fillers. But is it better when applied topically or injected?
Dr. Lao-Ang clarifies, “Topical hyaluronic acid [is used] for hydration and skin barrier repair, and as a moisturizing ingredient.” Its primary effects include instant hydration, a smoother texture, improved elasticity, and that healthy, dewy look. That said, since it cannot reach the really deep layers of skin or replace lost volume, its plumping effect is superficial and short-lived.
Meanwhile, injectable hyaluronic acid—used in dermal fillers or skin boosters—works beneath the surface to visibly volumize and rejuvenate the skin. Dr. Lao-Ang explains that there are two types: Non-cross-linked HA is lightweight and watery, and is “absorbed and broken down by the body relatively quickly,” making it ideal for deep hydration and improved radiance. On the other hand, “cross-linked HA is a more robust, gel-like substance.” Since it resists breakdown, it’s able to provide structure and lift to the skin, as well as longer-lasting results (from six months to up to two years, depending on the filler type and placement). The trade-off: Unlike topical HA you can pick up at a beauty counter, injectables require a trained professional to administer safely.
And then there’s oral hyaluronic acid. Yes, HA isn’t just for serums and injectables—you can actually take it by mouth, in the form of capsules, powders, or even beauty drinks. Once ingested, it’s broken down into smaller fragments, absorbed in the gut, and then circulated through the bloodstream. As early as the 1990s, oral HA was already being used but mainly as a medical supplement for easing osteoarthritis and joint pain. By the 2000s and 2010s, it started gaining popularity in beauty supplements—a trend we’re still seeing today.
Several studies have shown that taking HA orally may help with skin hydration, elasticity, and even brightness. The catch? Results vary depending on the dose and how well your body absorbs it. Effects are also more subtle than what you’d get from injectables or even some topicals. Still, it’s a promising option—just remember that supplement quality isn’t always consistent across brands.
All forms considered, there’s no single ‘better’ form of hyaluronic acid—topical, injectable, and oral HA each serve different purposes. Ultimately, it comes down to your skin goals, lifestyle, and budget. For those easing into the hyaluronic acid craze, topical products are the simplest place to start.
Not a Trend: Hyaluronic Acid is Here to Stay
In an industry overflowing with “hero” ingredients and daily skincare breakthroughs, few have earned the universal trust that hyaluronic acid enjoys. It’s everywhere—from the most budget-friendly drugstore serums to luxury creams, from beauty drinks to the latest “It” injectable—and with good reason. Unlike many fleeting trends, HA delivers on its skincare promise, securing its place as a true essential in any routine, no matter your age, skin type, or concern.
Ready to experience its benefits for yourself? Here are some hyaluronic acid-infused products worth adding to your regimen.
Pure Culture Bulgarian Rose Gold Satin Creme
P899, Spatio
Wake up to glow with this night cream infused with hyaluronic acid, CoQ10, and shea butter to hydrate and reset skin overnight. Discover more about Pure Culture here.
Habitude Dew It All Essence
P1,070, Spatio
This toner-serum hybrid blends sodium hyaluronate (a stable form of HA), vitamins, and antioxidants to revive and moisturize skin without the weight.
Bulgarian Rose Sublime Serum
P899, Pure Culture
Enjoy intense hydration from this hyaluronic acid pore-refining serum, which acts as a moisture magnet that firms, lifts, and smooth skin while pampering it with flecks of 24k luxurious gold (for antioxidant power). This features plant-derived, high-molecular-weight HA.
Bulgarian Rose Everything Elixir
P899, Pure Culture
This no-rinse, clean retinol-powered micellar water cleanses skin while also preventing premature aging. Its combination of hyaluronic acid, collagen, and elastic also deeply hydrates for a healthier complexion over time.
Dream Drops Universal Hydro-Oil
P899, Pure Culture
This dual-phase powerhouse drenches skin in moisture with both hyaluronic acid and sodium hyaluronate, while antioxidants resveratrol and edelweiss callus culture defend against stressors. The oil phase, packed with rosehip, borage, tamanu, and sea buckthorn, restores softness and glow for plump, radiant skin.
Pure Culture Wild Algae Glow Up Serum
P599, Pure Culture
This lightweight formula combines the “holy trinity of bright, clear skin”—hyaluronic acid, stabilized vitamin C, and niacinamide—in one powerful serum. Together, they hydrate, brighten, and refine skin, helping to calm breakouts, fade spots, and restore a natural glow.
UNWIND Skincare Hand + Body Lotion
P250/60ml, For Keeps Clean Beauty
For the hands and body, try this calming lavender-infused lotion, enriched with raw virgin coconut oil and pili nut oil for nourishment, plus sodium hyaluronate for lasting hydration. Aloe vera and botanical oils add soothing moisture, leaving skin soft, supple, and relaxed.
Shop all these products and more at The Beauty Edit Gallery at Spatio, located on the 3/F of Opus Mall, Bridgetowne Destination Estate, Quezon City. An editorial-led retail concept—and the first-of-its-kind in the local scene—the gallery spotlights indie innovators, cult icons, and niche trailblazers shaping F-beauty today.
