It’s 2023 and beauty is no longer a conversation reserved for the celebrities, the high profile, the moneyed, the beauty editors, and the true beauty junkies. With Google, or rather, TikTok, at our disposal, beauty information is right at our fingertips. It’s made beauty and self-care all the more fun and easier to do–and, well, a little confusing, for some.
As the industry grew, so did the use of beauty buzzwords, which have become more commonplace in describing or marketing the next new thing. We took it upon ourselves to do the hours-long research and fact-verifying to find out what these often used terms truly mean, from retinol and retinoid, moisturizer and hydrator to fragrance-free and unscented and more.
Fragrance-Free vs. Unscented
The terms fragrance-free and unscented are often used to label cosmetics, and while the two terms may seem quite similar, they do not mean the same thing. It’s necessary to know the difference, especially for those who have or can develop an allergy to fragrances.
Fragrance-free means no fragrance materials have been included in the formulation. Unscented, on the other hand, could mean that masking scents or other chemicals may have been added to neutralize the smell of the product, even if the latter may not have a distinct or discernable odor.
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VMV Hypoallergenics for instance is a brand that carries a lot of fragrance-free products and has prided itself in eliminating a lot of allergens in their formulations and testing them to make sure they’re hypoallergenic. Bioderma’s Sensibio H2O is micellar water made without fragrances and is great for cleansing sensitive skin.
VMV Hypoallergenics Illuminants+ Cleansing Cream
VIA VMV HYPOALLERGENICS PH
Bioderma’s Sensibio H2O
VIA DMARK BEAUTY
Probiotics, Prebiotics, and Postbiotics
We’ve all heard of how a balanced gut microbiome is beneficial to one’s wellbeing, augmenting our diets with probiotic supplement foods, such as yogurt and kombuchas. The same principle applies to our skin’s microbiome, which is the complex biological ecosystem on its surface made up of trillions of microorganisms. In the most ideal of circumstances, there would be more good bacteria to stave off the bad.
While the skin’s microbiota is affected by factors such as genetics, age, gender, and the like, it is also possible for it to be altered by stress, the external environment, and even harsh cleansers that strip away too much of the good bacteria. Thus, using gentle products that are beneficial to the biome could help one achieve healthier skin.
This has brought about the advent of probiotic skincare, which is a generic term often used to refer to products that contain “probiotics” that could nourish the skin’s microbiological ecology. Probiotics are defined by the World Health Organization as “live microorganisms that, when administered in adequate amounts, confer a health benefit on the host.” Should one wish to keep the “good bacteria” alive, skincare would have to be constantly refrigerated and preservative-free, which is quite rarely the case.
Given this, most products on the market, although marketed as “probiotics” are actually either prebiotic or postbiotic. Postbiotics refer to “deliberately inactivated microbial cells,” that like probiotics, are beneficial to the host. Oftentimes, they are the result of the fermentation process of probiotics. On the other hand, prebiotics are substances, sometimes plant-based, that encourage probiotics to grow, much like their “food.”
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Avene’s Cicalfate + Restorative Protective Cream is an example of skincare with postbiotics, as its C+ Restore ingredient is rich in proteins to help restore the skin barrier. Estee Lauder’s Micro Essence Treatment Lotion Fresh with Sakura Ferment is another goodie, as it’s formulated with postbiotics, bio-active lactobacillus ferment, as well as sakura ferment, to help protect the skin from external aggressors while locking in moisture. Fan favorite Laneige Water Sleeping Mask also contains postbiotics from lactobacillus ferment lysate derived from green tea leaves from Jeju island, to help skin look fresh and radiant.
Avene’s Cicalfate + Restorative Protective Cream
VIA AVENE
Estee Lauder’s Micro Essence Treatment Lotion Fresh with Sakura Ferment
VIA LAZADA
Murad’s Prebiotic 3-in-1 MultiMist, on the other hand, is packed with prebiotics and peptides to help manage the skin’s microbiome. And while often forgotten, the scalp also deserves a lot of TLC, and Phyto’s Softness Shampoo has prebiotics as well as oat milk, to offer balance to the scalp and gentle nourishment for one’s tresses.
Murad’s Prebiotic 3-in-1 MultiMist
VIA RUSTAN’S
Phyto’s Softness Shampoo
VIA RUSTAN’S
Retinol vs. Retinoids
Considered a holy grail skincare ingredient because of its transformative properties, the use of retinoids has become necessary in our routines. And while retinol and retinoids are sometimes used interchangeably, the terms are slightly different.
To be specific, according to dermatologist Dr. Jarische Ang (@thedermamamaph on Instagram), vitamin A derivatives fall under the umbrella term of “retinoids,” of which retinol is one kind. They’re prized because of their ability to encourage cell turnover and help stimulate collagen and elastin production, thus helping address the visible signs of aging.
According to her, for it to be effective, these would have to be transformed into its active form, which is retinoic acid. The more conversions required, the less potent it would be, but also makes it less irritating to the skin. The purest would of course be retinoic acid itself, also known as tretinoin, which has to be prescribed by a doctor.
Other forms are commercially available, which require a few steps to be converted to retinoic acid. The most popular version found in skincare is retinol, which undergoes a two-step conversion into retinoic acid. One example is Dermalogica’s Skin Retinol Serum, which has a 3.5 percent retinoid complex, including retinol, to help minimize the appearance of pores and wrinkles, as well as improve texture. Malin + Goetz’s Retinol Correcting Serum is another must-try that combines retinol, which is vitamin A, with vitamins C and E to smoothen skin and help combat oxidative stress from environmental pollution.
Retinal, on the other hand, requires only one step, while retinyl ester requires three. While the latter is the gentlest, its limited efficacy makes it less popular in cosmetic formulations. An example of a product with retinal however is Naturium’s Retinaldehyde Cream Serum 0.05%, which is made with a sustained-release retinaldehyde to help rejuvenate skin.
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Dermalogica’s Skin Retinol Serum
VIA DERMALOGICA
Malin + Goetz’s Retinol Correcting Serum
VIA RUSTAN’S
Moisturizer vs. Hydrator
We all want glowing, nourished skin, and one way to achieve it is to make sure it has the necessary moisture it needs. And while moisturizers and hydrators both work to make sure our complexions aren’t parched, the way they achieve this is slightly different.
If your skin is dry, you may benefit from a moisturizer, which creates a seal over the skin’s surface, preventing moisture from escaping. They are often oil-based, help soften the skin, and often contain emollient components like esters and plant oils, or occlusive agents such as petrolatum or mineral oil.
On the other hand, if your skin is dehydrated, a hydrator may be better for you. These products contain ingredients that are humectants and draw water from the environment to infuse it onto the skin. Examples of ingredients that are hydrators are glycerin, hyaluronic acid, glycolic acid, and aloe vera.
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Pamper yourself with Guerlain’s Abeille Royale Honey Treatment Day Cream, which infuses its nourishing formulation with the best honey ethically harvested from protected sites and blue zones. Or try Ultra Facial Cream with Squalane from Kiehl’s, with squalene derived from sugar cane, to protect the skin’s moisture barrier and help smoothen the skin.
Guerlain’s Abeille Royale Honey Treatment Day Cream
VIA RUSTAN’S
Ultra Facial Cream with Squalane from Kiehl’s
VIA LAZADA
The Hyaluronic Marine Hydration Booster from Dr. Dennis Gross imbues skin with weightless hydration, whilst addressing fine lines and a rough texture. Glow Recipe’s Plum Plump Hyaluronic Cream is another hydrator, and has a lightweight whipped gel cream texture to give skin a dewy glow.
Hyaluronic Marine Hydration Booster from Dr. Dennis Gross
Use our code THEBEAUTYEDIT for 10% off
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Cruelty-Free vs. Vegan
Apart from the benefits of a cosmetic product, how a product is made and tested, and what it contains has become equally important to consumers. In this case, the term cruelty-free would mean that the product has not been tested on animals; while vegan means that the product is free from animal or animal-derived ingredients, such as beeswax, lanolin, gelatin, silk, and the like.
A vegan product without animal components, may not necessarily be cruelty-free, and vice versa. Brands that are both cruelty-free and vegan, for instance, are Aveda, E.L.F. Cosmetics, and Fenty Beauty. Lush, on the other hand, is cruelty-free but not 100 percent vegan, as some of their products may have honey, yogurt, or eggs.
Skin Barrier vs. Stratum Corneum
There’s a lot of buzz about skin barrier health nowadays, and how a compromised barrier can lead to irritation, tenderness, sensitivity, or even acne. As the biggest organ in our body, our skin is extremely hardworking, protecting us from external threats like allergens and infectious agents, while keeping moisture in. With all the talk about caring for our skin barrier, another word has come up: the stratum corneum.
So what is the difference between the skin barrier and the stratum corneum? This is a trick question, because they actually mean the same thing. The topmost layer of the skin is called the epidermis, and its upper layer is the stratum corneum, which functions as the skin barrier. Under a microscope, it reveals a brick-and-mortar arrangement, with the corneocyte cells as the bricks, held together by mortar-like components such as ceramides and fatty acids.
Allergens, extreme temperatures, sun exposure, too much exfoliation, and even aging can degrade this barrier. Keeping it in good shape is dependent upon a variety of factors, such as a healthy lifestyle, avoiding smoking and stress, as well as good habits such as protecting it with the use of sunscreen and moisturizing.
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To improve the skin’s ceramide levels and help repair the skin barrier, try incorporating products with these fatty acids into your routine. Try QuickFX’s Ceraboost Shield Cream, which comes packed with five different ceramides, or CeraVe’s Daily Moisturizing Lotion, which combines ceramides with hyaluronic acid to gently nourish and restore the skin.
QuickFX’s Ceraboost Shield Cream
VIA MYQUICKFX
CeraVe’s Daily Moisturizing Lotion
VIA CERAVE
SPF vs. Sunscreen
While skincare routines vary, sun protection is essential for everyone, regardless of skin type. We often hear of the term SPF, which corresponds to “Sun Protection Factor”. It is a “measure of how much solar energy (UV radiation) is required to produce sunburn on protected skin relative to the amount of solar energy required to produce sunburn on unprotected skin.” As the SPF value increases, so does one’s level of sun protection.
Sunscreen, on the other hand, refers to a product with ingredients that protect us from UV radiation. It is important to look for sunscreen that offers “broad spectrum” protection, to indicate that it can shield you from both UVB and UVA rays.
To get the most out of your sunscreen, remember to apply an adequate amount, which is approximately two finger lengths of product for the entire face. Naturally, our bodies should also be protected with adequate amounts of sunscreen. One should also reapply every two hours, especially after swimming or sweating. Apply sunscreen even when indoors or on gloomy days, and wear protective clothing on extremely hot and sunny days.
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Sunscreen also generally falls into two camps, either physical or chemical. Physical sunscreens usually contain mineral ingredients, like titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, to block the rays of the skin and help prevent them from reaching your skin. An example is Habitude’s Go-Getter Moisture + Sun Stick which is formulated with 20% zinc oxide, as well as skin-loving emollients and antioxidant botanicals. Another one is Supergoop’s Play 100% Mineral Lotion SPF50, which has a nano zinc oxide formula to protect skin against harmful rays in an easily absorbable formula.
Chemical sunscreens, which have components like avobenzone and octisalate, absorb UV rays before they can cause havoc on your skin. We love Anessa’s Perfect UV Sunscreen Mild Milk for Face and Body SPF50 which even has 50% skincare ingredients and is made specifically for those with sensitive skin.
Habitude’s Go-Getter Moisture + Sun Stick
VIA HABITUDE
Supergoop’s Play 100% Mineral Lotion SPF50
VIA LAZADA
Anessa’s Perfect UV Sunscreen Mild Milk for Face and Body SPF50
VIA LAZADA
Clean Beauty vs. Organic Beauty
There is actually no standard definition for the term “clean beauty,” but is often considered to refer to products that don’t contain toxic ingredients. The American FDA prohibits 11, but some beauty brands do take it upon themselves to eliminate even more ingredients, in efforts to create even safer, healthier alternatives. Clean beauty doesn’t normally eliminate synthetic ingredients, as long as they are considered safe.
Organic or natural beauty, by its name, pertains to cosmetics made of organic or natural ingredients. Do note that these terms are not all-encompassing.
Natural beauty products, can of course, also be clean. That said, not all chemicals are bad, and not all organic components are safe. Some natural products should be used in moderation, like in the case of some essential oils which need to be diluted with a base oil, to prevent irritation. Other natural ingredients can also be allergens, so as with any skincare product, it’s important to patch test or consult an expert when necessary.
