Beauty is full of buzzwords—but which ingredients truly deliver? Welcome to Ingredient Lab, your guide to the science behind the formulas. In this edition, we’re putting the spotlight on skincare’s ultimate multitasker.
The beauty world loves a trend, but it doesn’t always love it for long. Remember when everyone was crazy about snail mucin? Or when tea tree oil reigned supreme as the go-to acne solution? Amid the endless trend cycles, though, only a select few ingredients have truly secured their place in the skincare canon. One of them is niacinamide.
More than just another hero active ingredient, niacinamide is an ingredient that comes with a fascinating history. Back in the early 20th century, a mysterious illness called pellagra swept through parts of the world. It came with a trio of symptoms—dermatitis, dementia, and diarrhea—and proved to be fatal if left untreated. The culprit? Scientists eventually traced the cause to a deficiency of vitamin B3 (a then-unknown nutrient), also known as niacin.
Later, researchers discovered that vitamin B3 comes in different forms: niacin (nicotinic acid) and niacinamide (nicotinamide). While niacin was the key to curing pellagra, it’s niacinamide that went on to make history in skincare.
“When applied directly to the skin, niacinamide has a more localized and potent effect. It effectively penetrates the stratum corneum or the outermost layer of the skin and directly influences skin cells to address specific cosmetic concerns.” —Dr. R-jay Agbon, board-certified dermatologist
A Nutrient Worth Seeking Out
Celebrated in beauty for its powerhouse benefits, niacinamide is a nutrient the body can’t produce on its own—meaning we have to get it elsewhere. In our diet, vitamin B3 typically shows up as niacin (think fish, poultry, meat, nuts, grains, avocados), which the body then converts into niacinamide. The catch: Dietary intake primarily supports overall health, not targeted skin concerns. That’s why applying niacinamide topically has become such a game-changer, as it delivers its benefits directly to the skin.
Dr. R-jay Agbon, a board-certified dermatologist, also known as @radiantdermph on Instagram, explains: “When applied directly to the skin, niacinamide has a more localized and potent effect [than what we get from dietary sources]. It effectively penetrates the stratum corneum or the outermost layer of the skin and directly influences skin cells to address specific cosmetic concerns.” He adds that this targeted application is far more effective in “reducing oil, minimizing pores, fading hyperpigmentation, and strengthening the skin barrier” than dietary intake alone.
And while niacinamide is widely used in a variety of products and formulas (moisturizers, serums, cleansers, masks, and more), Dr. Agbon reveals that the most effective niacinamide product type is a serum. “Serums are formulated to deliver a high concentration of active ingredients with a lightweight texture, allowing for deeper penetration and more effective results,” he shares.
Niacinamide’s Greatest Hits: The Benefits, Ranked
What sets niacinamide apart as a true skincare powerhouse is the sheer range of benefits it brings to the table. Nicknamed the Swiss Army Knife, the Overachiever, and the All-Rounder of skincare, it shows up in formulas targeting just about everything: brightening, breakouts, fine lines, texture, barrier strength, and more. But in a beauty world that loves a multitasker, it’s worth asking: Does niacinamide truly excel across the board, or are some of its benefits more substantiated than others?
“Based on extensive and recent scientific literature, the multi-faceted benefits of niacinamide can be ranked by their significance in improving overall skin health, supported by both clinical and mechanistic studies,” says Dr. Agbon. Here, he breaks them down by significance and impact:
1. Strengthening the skin barrier
He calls this “the most crucial and foundational benefit of niacinamide.” It helps the skin produce more of its own ceramides and lipids, strengthening the skin barrier and reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL). “A strong skin barrier is vital for retaining moisture and protecting the skin from environmental stressors,” he says, adding that this has been consistently demonstrated in research dating back to the early 2000s and continues to be confirmed in more recent studies.
2. Oil regulation and pore appearance
For those struggling with excess oil and acne-prone skin, adding niacinamide to your regimen can be very beneficial. “A major function of niacinamide is its ability to regulate sebum (oil) production,” he says. “It also minimizes the look of enlarged pores, which are often a result of excess sebum.” Studies even show that a 2 percent niacinamide formula can help dial down excess oil.
3. Brightening skin and reducing hyperpigmentation
Niacinamide is a favorite in products targeting skin tone for a reason. “Its mechanism is precise: it inhibits melanosome transfer from melanocytes to keratinocytes, which are the cells that form the skin’s surface layer. This action helps to lighten dark spots, sun spots, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation,” explains Dr. Agbon.
4. Anti-inflammatory and soothing effects
Need to calm redness and irritation? Niacinamide to the rescue. “Many clinical formulations and reviews support its use to soothe inflammatory skin conditions like acne and rosacea, reducing the associated redness and swelling,” says Dr. Agbon.
5. Anti-aging and the reduction of fine lines
Niacinamide provides modest but real cosmetic improvements. “Clinical trials show improvements in fine lines, elasticity, and texture, often when used in multi-ingredient formulations,” he says. It also helps protect against oxidative stress, contributing to an overall more youthful appearance.
All things considered, niacinamide is a true workhorse—versatile, reliable, and worthy of its reputation. But it’s not a miracle cure. It doesn’t excel at everything equally, yet it does enough (and does it well enough) to secure its spot in the skincare hall of fame. And while it works well on its own, its power often shines brightest when paired with other actives, especially for more transformative goals like visibly softening wrinkles. Which brings us to the next section.
Perfect Pairings: Getting the Most Out of Niacinamide
As a stable, gentle ingredient that suits all skin types, niacinamide is easy to layer into any routine. Better yet, it plays well with other actives, creating what Dr. Agbon calls “synergistic effects.” So, how should you pair it with other ingredients in your regimen? Here’s a quick cheat sheet:
Niacinamide + Hydrating Ingredients
“Pair niacinamide with hyaluronic acid or glycerin,” he says, since “niacinamide’s ability to improve barrier function and reduce TEWL helps humectants retain moisture, leading to a plumper, more hydrated complexion.”
Niacinamide + Retinoids
No need to stop your retinol use when introducing niacinamide—it’s an excellent partner for retinoids (retinol, tretinoin). “Its barrier-supporting and anti-inflammatory effects can significantly improve the tolerability of retinoids, mitigating the irritation, dryness, and redness often associated with their use,” he says.
Niacinamide + Antioxidants
“The old claim that niacinamide and Vitamin C cannot be combined is based on an old lab artifact,” says. Dr. Agbon. Current research shows they actually work well together, so you don’t need to worry about mixing them. The key is just being smart with your routine—for example, choosing a stable form of Vitamin C (like Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate) and layering smartly.
Niacinamide + Acne-Fighting Ingredients
“Niacinamide is a great complement to acne actives like salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide.” Its soothing and oil-regulating effects pair well with these treatments, helping achieve a clearer, more balanced complexion without over-drying the skin.
Also worth noting: It’s a myth that you can’t use niacinamide with AHAs or BHAs (common in anti-acne formulas). While the lower pH of acids can, in theory, cause niacinamide to convert into nicotinic acid—which may trigger temporary flushing—modern formulations are stable enough that this is highly unlikely.
How Much Niacinamide Do You Need?
When it comes to choosing the right concentration of niacinamide, Dr. Agbon says the consensus is clear. “Two to five percent is a well-supported and well-tolerated range for most cosmetic benefits,” he explains, noting that clinical trials within this range show positive results for oil control, barrier improvement, and targeting hyperpigmentation. “This concentration is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin, and is ideal for daily use.”
That said, products with higher concentrations—around 10 percent and up—are available in the market and may be used for specific concerns. However, Dr. Agbon cautions that they “deliver diminishing returns for many users and may increase irritation risk,” adding that the clinical benefit tends to plateau as concentrations rise.
Shop the Niacinamide Edit
Science aside, let’s get to the fun part—the products. Here are some niacinamide-powered picks worth adding to your shelf.
CKIN
A super lightweight complexion treat, CKIN’s Skinfulness Hydrator nourishes and balances skin with a formula that combines barrier-boosting niacinamide with Japanese mondo grass extracts and Cica for soothing effects.
Skinfulness Hydrator
P1,190, CKIN
Small Steps Skin
Small Steps’ Pure Daily Essentials routine—powered by a combo of niacinamide and vitamin C—keeps skin bright and balanced without any harshness. It includes a gentle cleanser, pore-refining toner, lightweight niacinamide gel cream, and a bakuchiol-powered serum (for nighttime use). The routine rounds out with a lightweight sunscreen.
Small Steps Skin Daily Gentle Cleanser
P399, Lazada
Feels So Light Niacinamide Gel Cream
P499, Lazada
Small Steps Skin Brightening Power Glow Serum
P549, Lazada
Clocheflame
A spritz of instant R&R—this facial mist hydrates, soothes, and revives dull skin with niacinamide, cold-extracted coconut water, D-Panthenol, and hydrolyzed oat extract.
Clocheflame TLC Spray Restorative Facial Mist
P499, Lazada
