When Maison Francis Kurkdian launched in 2009, its iconic Aqua Universalis took the fragrance world by storm and cemented the clean, skin scent category into the luxury high-end niche fragrance market. Baccarat Rouge 540, his collaborative masterpiece with the crystal manufacturer, is also one of Maison Francis Kurkdjian’s most iconic and bestselling perfumes.
A Baccarat chandelier gleams in the center of his Paris office, Francis Kurkdjian tells The Beauty Edit—a small detail but telling of how the master perfumer creates fragrance stories.
In this exclusive interview with The Beauty Edit, the master perfumer–regarded as the greatest nose of his generation–talks about his work and process and the beautiful energy and story behind 724, one of his eponymous label’s recent fragrances, and one of MFK’s biggest launches in years.
“As a perfumer, when it comes to my personal taste, the fragrances I have in mind for the future are always the most intriguing and appealing to me. In fact, the most exciting in life is always what lies ahead,” he tells The Beauty Edit. “So, the next fragrance is always what I’m excited about. The fragrances I have created in the past all have their particular meaning and importance to me. Each new creation is a new story to tell.”
This masterpiece of Maison Francis Kurkdjian, 724, is an interesting and unforgettable story. 724 is a gem, something we expected from the house that has not had a major new launch in a while, and the maker of one of the world’s most iconic clean scents, Aqua Universalis. Inspired by the big cities Kurkdjian holds dear, 724 is a clean and vibrant urban scent. “It is the sensation of clean, energizing freshness like the one that emanates from New York laundries at the break of day,” notes the perfume house. Its abstract olfactory theme is airy and floral like several creations in the MFK fragrance line, but unlike all others, this has a vibrant and bright energy. The fresh urban facet comes from aldehydes and bergamot oil; the floral white facet from the abstract white floral accord and jasmine absolute; and the “cotton comfortable” facet from sandalwood accord and white musks. It’s also notably long-lasting as it settles into a beautiful skin scent.
How did the idea of “big cities” and a new scent to capture such come about?
I grew up near the Paris suburbs. I studied perfume creation at ISIPCA, in Versailles, and created Le Male for Jean Paul Gaultier right out of school at age 25. Shortly after, I had the opportunity to move to New York and then to travel all around the world. Sydney, Tokyo, Seoul, Shanghai, New Delhi, Mumbai, Manila, Kuala Lumpur, Moscow, London, Berlin, Buenos Aires, Los Angeles… Paris of course is my home and the capital that I always go back to, an endless source of inspiration and the place where I love to create the most. All these metropolises, despite being so different from one another, share a magnetic, uplifting energy, something that makes you feel that everything is possible. There is something about big cities that elevates you, electrifies you in a way. 724 is all that.
You’ve mentioned New York and several other megacities as the inspiration for 724. Would you mind sharing your most notable memories in those cities?
Firstly, let me point out that 724 is not only about New York. It is indeed about about the effervescence all big cities have in common across the globe. I have a very precise memory linked to New York, though, from my time there. When I went there for the first time, what struck me instantly was the buzzing vibe of the city, its uplifting and thrilling energy. I walked in the streets in the early morning, passing by the laundries and seeing the thick white vapor they released in the brisk morning air. It felt so comfortable and always put me in a good mood! I translated this very enveloping sensation in the composition of my fragrance, by using white flowers mainly.
You’ve broken boundaries in perfumery and altered the fragrance landscape with your work for your own perfume house. How has Maison Francis Kurkdjian both evolved and remained the same from when it started in 2009 to now?
Maison Francis Kurkdjian was created by Marc Chaya, CEO, and me in 2009 to offer a new vision for fragrance. Perfume is my means of artistic expression, it’s the vehicle for telling my stories. With Maison Francis Kurkdjian I was able to explore new territories, to do things differently, and to advocate for my vision of perfume. It has established itself as a celebrated player in the world of haute parfumerie and will continue to promote an artistic approach to fragrance creation, with poetry, joyfulness and the love of perfume guiding each step.
Maison Francis Kurkdjian started with a boutique in Paris and a few doors in the U.S. Today we are distributed and loved in about 700 doors. We are growing very fast, but the passion behind the Maison and the vision remain the same.
As a perfumer, how do you prevent yourself from spreading yourself too thin when it comes to creating fragrances for different brands?
Working for different brands does not affect me or my creativity at all. Both are challenging and I wouldn’t say that one is easier than another. Working for someone else, in a different brand universe, is another type of work, there are challenges in both cases. When I work for other brands, I am in competition with other fragrance houses and perfumers very often. I work on a deadline and a budget; and most of the times I have to deliver a fragrance that will be tested on the market among targeted consumers.
When I work for my eponymous house, I am in charge and responsible for the project from A to Z. I can’t hide. Therefore, my inspiration is key. To be the in-house artistic creator and the perfumer at the same time makes a tremendous difference. The marketing around the product is at the service of a genuine artistic and creative vision. This is unique in the industry.
My inspiration comes from many different sources, from the world around me, from art, culture, the opera, ballet, or even from observing people. To be relevant, you have to be a chameleon, be part of the world that surrounds you. Gladly, the world is an endless source of inspiration.
Fragrance sales boomed amid the pandemic, and now people talk about the luxury fragrance rebound. How is Maison Francis Kurkdjian adapting to new trends–or is it even?
During the past months, some continued to perfume themselves, some others chose new ways to perfume, using scented hair mists, shower gels or body lotions. Some also chose to light some scented candles in their interiors. As far as I am concerned, I stay away from trends. Instead, I follow my artistic vision and my feelings about the contemporary world we live in. Trends often disappear as fast as they appear. I want my clients to feel different and to avoid feeling concerned about wearing an outdated fragrance or not. I want to reassure them that they are allowed to wear different things, to have their own fragrance wardrobe from which to select a scent to fit their mood, or an occasion, etc. Trends are good for fashion as the pace for fashion is to outdate what was once fashionable. Scents are based on a different momentum.
What for you is the biggest misconception about perfumes or perfumery?
Some consumers believe that natural ingredients are better but this is a misconception and the perfume industry, from niche to mainstream, from high-end luxury to commercial, should not be afraid of science, of chemistry and of talking about it. We abide to the strictest safety regulations, of course, and all-natural isn’t necessarily better.
Your creations are like poetry to many collectors; they have depth and beautiful stories to tell. And 724 seems to be another covetable creation. Would you say that this is an easy to love scent or an acquired taste?
Fragrance is very personal. Some people will love it and some people will not, I cannot say how people will react to 724 but I hope it will be a much-loved addition to the Maison’s olfactory wardrobe. The fragrance is very fresh, crisp and energizing, with a reassuring, comfortable aspect as well.
Outside work, how do you spend relaxing days?
I enjoy the city, I go to museums, to the opera or to see a ballet. I love to see my friends, my family and to have them over for dinner in my home in Paris.
Can you describe what your office looks like?
My office at Maison Francis Kurkdjian is at the corner of a typically Parisian, Haussmann building with a balcony and high windows that allow for plenty of light to come in. I have some art pieces inside and a beautiful Baccarat chandelier in the center.
Fragrances are…
Emotions
3 must-haves from your brand?
Impossible to choose
The best word to describe 724…
Comforting
I hope my creations make people…
…feel great!
I’m looking forward to…
Life and everything it has to offer
Maison Francis Kurdjian 724 eau de parfum
VIA RUSTAN’S
Maison Francis Kurdjian Aqua Universalis. The cleanest luxury scent in our book. It’s transparent but with enough presence not to smell like nothing.
Maison Francis Kurdjian Aqua Universalis
VIA RUSTAN’S
Maison Francis Kurdjian created its Aqua Cologne Forte line as the obvious in-between of the cologne and the forte, with its initial drop Aqua Universalis, Aqua Vitae, and Aqua Celestia in fresher and enriched versions. A new and apt addition to the collection is Aqua Media, which we feel completes the line and the story. It’s a sparkling, citrus, aromatic green scent–fresh and electric with bergamot and verbena, and botanical with sweet fennel, green moss, aniseed, a base of woody musks, a hint of patchouli, and matcha tea somewhere, a whiff reminiscent of a green tea perfume of old.
Aqua Media
VIA RUSTAN’S
Maison Francis Kurkdjian 724 Extrait de Parfum. It takes meticulous craftsmanship to create an extrait de parfum, likely the case with MFK’s 724, which is a true iteration of the original EdP. We’ve earlier reviewed this current MFK favorite, which we thought was already perfect as it is. And then we met 724 extrait de parfum with the same profile and olfactory experience but with emphasized richness and even better longevity. This extrait is the ideal retouch scent if you already have the EdP spray. Housed in a roller vial, this precious elixir is meant for on-the-go application on pulse points, at the nape, or decolletage. The perfume’s silky texture is rich but retains the sparkly element of 724 and adds to its long-lasting trail. We’re ecstatic to add this to our collection.
