Straight to curly, curly to straight. Changing your hair’s natural texture is a big decision. It comes with excitement, a bit of anxiety, and a whole lot of questions. Will it suit me? How long will it last? And, the most pressing concern: Will my hair survive the process?
I recently got a digital perm, trading in my naturally straight hair for waves. Several years ago, I also had my hair rebonded, so I’ve experienced both ends of the spectrum. Both were styling game-changers, but each had a learning curve. What I didn’t expect was how much my hair routine would change afterward—or how crucial aftercare would be to maintain the results.
If you’re considering texture-altering treatments like perms and rebonding, here’s what you need to know before taking the plunge.
Understanding Hair Texture and Chemistry
Perming and rebonding both rely on chemical processes that break and reshape your hair’s disulfide bonds—curls for perming, and straightness for rebonding. Our hair’s strength and shape are primarily determined by these disulfide bonds—strong covalent links within the hair’s keratin structure. When disulfide bonds are intact, they provide resilience and elasticity, contributing to the hair’s overall health and appearance. However, once these bonds are exposed to chemical treatments, heat styling, hair dye, or environmental stressors, it may cause the hair cuticle (the outermost protective layer) to develop cracks, making strands more vulnerable to dryness and breakage.
A 2024 study from the International Journal of Cosmetic Science explains that chemical treatments work by altering the disulfide bonds in hair, which give it shape and texture. These bonds don’t naturally repair themselves, meaning that once hair is permed or rebonded, it stays altered until new hair grows.
Waves for Days: A Deep Dive into Permed Hair
A perm, short for “permanent wave,” is a chemical treatment whose process involves breaking and reforming the disulfide bonds in the hair shaft, essentially reshaping it from the inside out. Unlike using a curling iron, which temporarily changes the shape of your hair, a perm creates a longer-lasting effect that can last for three to six months (or even longer, depending on your hair type and routine).
There are two main types of perms:
A Cold Perm, also known as a traditional perm, doesn’t use heat and uses an alkaline solution to break and reshape the hair bonds. It typically creates tighter, more defined curls that are more prominent when the hair is dry. It also works well for coarse or thick hair that can hold a curl.
A Digital Perm, on the other hand, uses heat and special rods to create softer, more flowy waves.
I opted for a digital perm because I wanted waves that felt more relaxed, with less of the “tight spiral curl” look. The process was time-consuming; it took about four hours in the salon. But it was fascinating to see the process unfold. I had it done at T&J Salon Professionals, which came highly recommended for this type of treatment.
The Perm Process
Before anything else, my stylist did a hair consultation to assess whether my hair was healthy enough for a perm. This is an important step—since perming involves strong chemicals and heat, not all hair types can handle it. If your hair is too damaged or dry from bleaching or coloring, the stylist might tell you to skip the perm or prepare your hair with deep conditioning treatments first.
Since my hair was in decent shape but slightly dry from previous styling, my stylist recommended a pre-perm treatment to strengthen it. This extra step added about 30 to 45 minutes to the process, but it helped ensure my hair wouldn’t become overly dry or brittle after the perm.
Once my hair was prepped, the actual digital perm process began. The stylist first washed my hair with shampoo to remove any product buildup. Afterward, a solution was applied to soften my hair’s natural structure. This took about 30 to 40 minutes.
The next step is where a digital perm differs from a traditional one. Sections of my hair were wrapped around heated curling rods, which were then connected to a machine that held up the rods. The rods then warmed up to help set the curl pattern.
After the rods were removed, a second chemical was applied to lock in the new curls and restore the bonds in my hair. Finally, my hair was rinsed and styled with a curling essence, creating defined loose, bouncy waves that looked natural but noticeably more defined.
The Aftercare
Regardless of which treatment you choose, hair care doesn’t end at the salon. Both perming and rebonding require consistent aftercare to maintain hair health and prolong the results. While my digital perm made styling easier, I quickly learned that permed hair still requires proper maintenance. I’d expected that I could just wake up, fluff out my curls a bit, and go, but the reality was a little different.
The first rule was that I shouldn’t wash my hair for at least 48 hours. My stylist warned me that my hair was still setting and washing it too soon could cause the curls to loosen before they fully formed. Once I was finally able to wash it, I had to switch to a different hair routine.
I swapped my regular shampoo for a sulfate-free shampoo that wouldn’t strip moisture from my curls. Deep conditioning also became non-negotiable, so I started using lightweight hair essences and leave-in conditioners to keep my hair soft and prevent it from drying out. These products also absorbed easily and gave my waves a healthier and more defined look.
Towel drying also made a difference in how my curls turned out. A regular bath towel made my hair slightly more frizzy, so I switched to a microfiber towel to absorb excess moisture without roughing up the texture. After gently squeezing out the water, I’d apply my leave-in conditioner or essence, give my hair a few scrunches, and let it air-dry.
One of the biggest perks of my digital perm was how low-maintenance styling became. Unlike before when I had to curl my hair with an iron, I could now step out of the house with little effort. On most days, I just let my hair air-dry. If I wanted them to look a bit more defined, I would scrunch in a bit of either mousse or gel, or spray on a revitalizing mist, and the curls instantly looked more polished.
Another thing I quickly noticed was how much trims helped maintain the shape of my curls. When my hair started growing longer, the weight pulled my curls down, making them look looser. But after a trim, my curls bounced back and looked tighter again. The stylist recommended getting a trim every two to three months to prevent my hair from getting too heavy and to keep the curls looking fresh.
Product Picks For Long-Lasting, Healthy Curls
CANTU Comeback Curl Next Day Curl Revitalizer
P549, Lazada
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Mise en scene Curling Essence 2x Volume Curl
P479, Lazada
Curls by Zenutrients Avocado & Tea Tree Clarifying Shampoo
P474, Lazada
GIOVANNI Mousse Air-Turbo Charged™ Hair Styling Foam
P1,735, Lazada
Rebonding: Achieving Sleek, Straight Hair
If a perm gives you curls, rebonding does the opposite. It straightens hair permanently by breaking its natural bonds and reforming them into a straight and smooth structure. The process is intensive and involves applying a straightening solution, ironing the hair section by section to remove any waves or kinks, and then sealing the new shape with a neutralizer. With that, you get pin-straight hair that can stay that way for months.
I got my first rebond years ago and loved how sleek and manageable my hair became. It was incredibly smooth and straight from day one as my hair had a polished and frizz-free look. I had to be mindful not to tuck it behind my ears or tie it up right away to maintain its rebonded finish. But just like perming, it made hair styling almost effortless as there’s no need for daily straightening and your hair stays sleek no matter the weather.
The Rebonding Process
Like many who go through the process, I was drawn to the idea of smooth, frizz-free hair that stayed sleek no matter what. At the time, my natural hair had slight waves and a lot of frizz, and I wanted something that would make daily styling easier.
Since my hair was virgin and healthy, I didn’t need to have any extra protective steps done because I didn’t have to worry about pre-existing damage affecting the results. The process itself was long and took about five hours in the salon. It started with cleansing my hair to remove any buildup, followed by the application of a straightening solution that broke down the natural bonds in my hair. The stylist worked section by section, ensuring that every strand was coated before leaving it to process. After some time, my hair was rinsed and blow-dried, then the part that transformed my texture: the flat iron.
This step was the most meticulous. The stylist took thin sections of my hair and ironed them repeatedly to lock in the straightness. The waves disappeared entirely and were replaced by glossy straight strands. Once the ironing was done, a neutralizer was applied to set the new structure permanently. After another rinse and a final blow-dry, I looked in the mirror and saw sleek, shiny, and smooth hair.
The Aftercare
The first few days were a bit of an adjustment. I had to keep my hair completely straight and untouched. No tying or using clamps and hairbands (something I usually do out of habit), no tucking behind my ears, and no washing for at least three days to avoid unwanted bends. But what made it even harder was the heat. It was hot and humid, and I’d frequently get the urge to put my hair up or get it away from my face, but I couldn’t risk denting it. It stuck to my neck and I had to constantly remind myself not to push it back or clip it up. My hair was ultra-smooth, but it also felt stiff because it lacked the natural movement and bounce that I was used to.
As the weeks passed, it started to soften and move more naturally, and I no longer felt like my hair just sat there rigidly. It stayed smooth most of the time and I didn’t have to worry about frizz or flyaways, which was definitely a trade-off that was worth it in the long run.
Even though my hair didn’t feel damaged at first, I noticed that my ends started feeling drier over time, so to prevent this, I incorporated deep conditioning masks once or twice a week. The stylist also recommended applying lightweight hair oils (like argan oil), cuticle coats, or leave-in creams to keep my strands smooth without making them greasy.
Product Picks For Straightened Strands
Naturals by Watsons Argan Oil Hair Oil
P225, Lazada
Garnier Fructis Sleek & Shine Intensely Smooth Leave-In Conditioning Cream
P540, Lazada
Tresemme Keratin Smooth Professional Weekly Treatment Mask
P844, Lazada
L’Oreal Paris Ever Pure Frizz-Defy Conditioner
P395, Lazada
The Damage Trade-Off: What Happens to Hair After These Treatments?
As emphasized, perming and rebonding both rely on chemical processes that break and reshape your hair’s natural bonds. While this makes the results long-lasting, it also weakens the hair’s structure, which can lead to dryness and brittleness if not properly cared for. This is why over time, many people notice their treated hair feeling drier, more limp, or more prone to breakage especially if they frequently expose it to heat or additional chemical treatments.
Perms have come a long way from the overly crunchy curls they used to create, but the process still involves chemical restructuring. The perm solution breaks down your hair’s natural shape, and then heat or rollers mold it into waves or curls to get bouncy, textured hair. But with that transformation may also come increased porosity, meaning the hair absorbs moisture quickly but also loses it just as fast. Aside from that, the chemicals used in the process, particularly ammonium thioglycolate, weaken the hair cuticle, making it less elastic, more brittle, and eventually prone to split ends. On the other hand, since potent chemicals are also used to restructure the hair’s internal bonds when rebonding, it can also result in hair breakage, damage, and dryness.
Ultimately, while perming and rebonding can give you a dramatic transformation, they require a long-term commitment to hair health. The best way to prevent excessive damage is to space out chemical treatments (it is generally recommended to wait at least six months before getting another chemical treatment), minimize heat exposure, and maintain a deeply moisturizing routine. A well-maintained perm can stay bouncy and defined for months, while properly cared-for rebonded hair can remain straight without becoming overly dry or brittle. But like all beauty treatments, the key to longevity isn’t just in the salon procedure but in how you care for your hair afterward.
Woman at the Hair Salon Getting Her Hair Styled by © Jacob Lund via Canva.com
