Not long ago, a photo of actress Jenna Ortega sparked outrage on the internet. She was smoking and people reacted as if she was the first grown woman to ever take a puff. The reason? Perhaps it was because from the moment Gen Z started growing up, scientific studies have not ceased to claim how they will be the first generation to end smoking once and for all. Seeing proof of a young actress defying such a hopeful prophecy was not only disappointing, it was also nostalgic—a difficult reminder of how nicotine addiction works: just when you thought it has gone away, it comes back to make you desperate for a drag.
Millennials, Gen Xers, and especially Boomers know exactly what life looked like when smoking was fashionable. Passengers were allowed to chain-smoke in an airplane or while having a meeting in the office conference room. Models were photographed holding cigarettes for advertising campaigns. Teenagers snuck around smelling like days-old tobacco and parents pretended not to notice. Good times, sort of.
These days, seeing a public figure unapologetically holding a cigarette is jarring because smoking has become an urban taboo (not to mention a fineable offense), but that doesn’t mean it doesn’t exist anymore. In fact, its current poster girls are just as cool as the Kates and Winonas of years past. In a disconnect with the rising interest in beauty and wellness, smoking is once again an “aesthetic,” but how “aesthetic” can it really be if it, in the long run, ruins your face?
How Does Smoking Affect the Skin, Hair, and Teeth?
The health risks of smoking are well-known, thanks to the increasingly graphic images plastered on cigarette packs. A 2021 randomized clinical trial found that while these are effective at making smokers think of quitting, they don’t necessarily result in quitting or reduced consumption. This is why anti-smoking organizations are also highlighting the “soft” hazards of a nicotine habit.
According to Advances in Dermatology and Allergology, smoking is an “undeniable risk factor for premature skin aging.” It doesn’t matter if you slather on three fingers worth of sunscreen every two hours—if you smoke, you’re aging your skin by depriving it of oxygen and nutrients. It also exacerbates existing skin conditions like acne and psoriasis, and slows down wound healing.
Dr. Anna Palabyab-Rufino says the effects of smoking on one’s appearance happen gradually over time. “It may start with bad breath, a yellowish discoloration of the teeth as well as on the fingers and nails, and pigmentation on the face,” Dr. Palabyab-Rufino says. “Smoking causes the destruction of collagen and elastin which provide our skin with strength and elasticity. This will cause the skin to sag and form wrinkles. Wrinkles around the mouth from pursing your lips and around the eyes from squinting and furrowing our brows appear sooner for smokers.” Studies have also shown that smoking increases a person’s biological age, but will depend on factors such as how long the person has been smoking and how much he/she smokes in a day.Dr. Anna Palabyab-Rufino
“Nicotine also causes vasoconstriction which leads to poor blood circulation, preventing the proper delivery of oxygen and nutrients to the skin. This results in a pale complexion and uneven skin tone. This also causes poor wound healing and increases the risk for infections. This is why patients undergoing surgery are asked to quit at least four weeks before a procedure.” Chemicals in e-cigarettes, especially those that contain nicotine, will have the same effects.
As for the hair, Dr. Palabyab-Rufino says smoking results in an increased risk for hair loss and androgenetic alopecia. It also puts smokers at higher risk for mouth, throat, esophageal, and skin cancer.
“Studies have also shown that smoking increases a person’s biological age, but will depend on factors such as how long the person has been smoking and how much he/she smokes in a day. Thankfully, some of these effects can be reversed, but improvements will vary per person. The body is amazing in its ability to heal itself,” she explains.
Is Fear of Aging Enough to Make You Quit?
Whereas the dangers of cancer seem so distant, threats of acne, wrinkles, dark lips, and yellow teeth feel more imminent. These are side effects smokers have to address every day, and they may very well be good enough reasons to quit.
*Chi, who quit smoking in 2019, shares that her primary reason for quitting was the smell of cigarettes and her unrelenting acne problem. “I’ve had acne since I was a teenager, but it definitely got worse when I started smoking. I would get painful, cystic acne and extra large blackheads. My skin also looked ashy. I tried to quit many times and each time, my will to give up the habit became stronger. After my third failed attempt, I noticed I couldn’t stand the smell of cigarette smoke any longer. I hated how it stuck to my skin, clothes, and hair. It didn’t bother me before. So I stopped cold turkey and it worked. It turns out I was tired of it.” I smoked for 20 years and, in those 20 years, I never experienced ‘glowing’ skin.
Ex-smoker *Tina had a similar experience, but with her teeth. “I would literally dream about all my teeth becoming rotten!” she says. “And no matter how many times I brushed my teeth and gargled with mouthwash, I couldn’t seem to get rid of my smoker’s breath. The worst part was feeling self-conscious about wearing red lipstick. I know that sounds shallow, but it made me insecure about my yellow teeth.”
Meanwhile, *Grace, a quitter of three years, noticed a significant improvement in her appearance within a year of giving up cigarettes. Aside from feeling healthier over all, she also saw a dewy glow in her skin that wasn’t there before. “I smoked for 20 years and, in those 20 years, I never experienced ‘glowing’ skin. Since I quit, my dark circles disappeared. My formerly sallow skin is brighter and less oily. And believe it or not, my lips are pinker.”
How to Reverse the Effects of Smoking on the Skin
Quitting smoking alone doesn’t reverse any damage it has inflicted on the skin, but it does give organs a chance to function optimally and self-repair. To really turn things around for your appearance and health, a total lifestyle change is in order. Along with a balanced diet and exercise, a targeted skincare routine helps. Dr. Palabyab-Rufino shares her advice.
What adjustments should you make to your skincare routine?
Ex-smokers should be more consistent with their skincare routine to help repair the damage that has been done. Living a healthier lifestyle with proper diet and exercise can very well reverse the effects of smoking and lower the risk of lung and cardiovascular diseases. Regular visits to your board-certified dermatologists can also help “fix” the damage that has been done.
What ingredients should you look for to give your skin a boost?
Dull and dry skin from smoking can benefit from using retinoids such as tretinoin, adapalene, or retinol, which help stimulate collagen and reduce fine lines. They also encourage the production of new blood vessels. Cigarette smoke causes the formation of free radicals that destroy collagen, therefore you can also add products containing antioxidants like vitamin C and E. Of course, sun protection is essential to help protect the skin from UV rays that can further damage it. Adding a moisturizer also helps improve the skin barrier.
What in-office treatments are best for former smokers?
Energy-based devices such as micro-focused ultrasound that help lift, tighten, and stimulate collagen are highly recommended. Pigment lasers can help improve the uneven skin tone and yellow lasers can help get rid of broken capillaries caused by smoking. Other popular treatments include botulinum toxin injections in areas that have developed lines and wrinkles due to smoking. Hyaluronic acid fillers can also be injected into areas affected by volume loss.
There’s No Shame in Being Vain
Quitting is quitting, no matter what shape or form it takes. To paraphrase a popular skincare philosophy, the best motivation is the one that makes you follow through. So, go ahead, tell everyone you’re giving up cigarettes because you’re climbing a mountain, running a marathon, or trying to have a baby. But know that there’s no shame in quitting so you can wear warm reds on your lips or have radiant skin, either. Vanity gets a bad rap, but who cares if it can also save your life?
