Glossary: Your Go-To Guide for Acne-Fighting Actives

Some anti-acne ingredients work fast, some work deep, and some prevent breakouts before they even begin. This guide dives into the most effective anti-acne ingredients, how they work, and which one might be your skin’s new best friend.
Reading Time: 6 minutes

When you see skincare labels like “anti-acne,” “pore-clearing”, or “blemish-fighting,” it’s easy to believe that a product will zap breakouts right away—especially with summer heat ramping up oil production and making breakouts feel inevitable. But if you’ve ever applied a product expecting overnight results, only to wake up to the same (or worse) skin, you’d know that the reality isn’t that simple.

Not all acne treatments work the same way—some combat bacteria, others control oil, and some focus on long-term skin renewal. The key to better skin isn’t just picking up the trendiest product with bold claims. It’s understanding how these ingredients work and what your skin actually needs. Here’s a closer look at the key ingredients that can make a real difference in your routine.

Salicylic Acid: The Deep Pore Cleanser

If you struggle with oily, acne-prone skin or frequent blackheads and clogged pores, salicylic acid might be your go-to ingredient. This beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) has a unique oil-soluble structure that works by penetrating deep into the pores, breaking down oil, dead skin cells, and debris that can lead to clogged pores, blackheads, and acne. But its benefits extend beyond unclogging pores: Salicylic acid also has anti-inflammatory properties, helping to calm redness and irritation often associated with breakouts. Unlike physical exfoliants that can be abrasive and disruptive to the skin barrier, salicylic acid works more gently in accelerating skin turnover without causing microtears.

Beyond its role in clearing skin, it also plays a part in long-term acne management. By regulating oil production and exfoliating, it reduces the likelihood of future breakouts while refining skin texture over time. However, its deep-cleansing power can also lead to dryness or irritation, especially for those new to exfoliating acids. To maintain balance, it’s best paired with ingredients like hyaluronic acid for hydration or Centella asiatica to support barrier repair. This combination allows skin to stay clear, resilient, and healthy, rather than over-exfoliated and easily damaged.

OXECURE 2% Salicylic Acid Acne Clear Potion

P369, Lazada

OXECURE 1.5% Salicylic Acid Acne Clear Facial Cleanser

P499, Lazada

Kiehl’s Truly Targeted Acne-Clearing Pimple Patch with Salicylic Acid

P2,700, Lazada


Benzoyl Peroxide: The Bacteria Fighter

If you’re constantly dealing with red, inflamed pimples or pustules, benzoyl peroxide is one of the most effective over-the-counter treatments available. Rather than unclogging pores like how salicylic acid works, benzoyl peroxide goes straight to the source by killing Cutibacterium acnes, the bacteria that can trigger inflammatory acne. It also helps control excess oil, which makes it especially useful for those dealing with persistent breakouts.

But again, with great power comes responsibility. Benzoyl peroxide is strong and can be drying, causing redness and peeling if used too aggressively. To avoid irritation, it’s usually recommended to start with a lower concentration (2.5%) and gradually increase as your skin adjusts.

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Benzac Benzoyl Peroxide Spots Treatment Gel 5%

P525, Lazada


Niacinamide: The Oil Regulator and Redness Soother

Niacinamide, a form of vitamin B3, is often called an all-around skincare hero because it addresses multiple concerns. Beyond tackling acne, it helps regulate oil production to prevent clogged pores, evens out skin tone, and calms inflammation, making it a great choice for sensitive, acne-prone skin.

Niacinamide also strengthens the skin barrier, locking in moisture and making your skin more resilient, especially if you’re using stronger acne treatments like benzoyl peroxide or retinoids. Another one of its most beneficial properties is that it helps fade acne marks—a win-win for clearer, healthier-looking skin.

Revox B77 Just Niacinamide 10%

P499, Lazada

COSRX The Niacinamide 15% Serum

P989, Lazada

Paula’s Choice 10% Niacinamide Booster

P3,150, Paula’s Choice

The Inkey List Niacinamide Face Serum

P720, Sephora

Azelaic Acid: The Dual-Action Brightener

Azelaic acid might not be as well-known as other acne treatments, but it’s a powerhouse ingredient with a range of benefits. It fights acne at the source with antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties, helping to calm active breakouts while preventing new ones from forming. But what also makes it stand out is its ability to fade post-acne marks and even out skin tone by inhibiting tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for melanin production.

While stronger treatments can be harsh or irritating, azelaic acid is gentle enough for sensitive skin and is even used to manage conditions like rosacea. While it may not clear breakouts as quickly as benzoyl peroxide, its long-term benefits—smoother skin, reduced redness, and fewer dark spots—make it a great choice for those seeking both acne control and overall skin clarity.

Anua Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum

P1,900, Lazada

The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%

$12.20, The Ordinary


Tea Tree: The Natural Alternative

Tea tree oil is often hailed as nature’s answer to acne, as it’s a plant-based alternative to stronger treatments. Derived from the Melaleuca alternifolia plant, this essential oil is packed with antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties, making it effective at reducing swelling, redness, and the bacteria that contribute to breakouts. Research supports its ability to improve mild to moderate acne, particularly for those who prefer a more natural approach to skincare.

However, though tea tree oil can be effective, it’s not a one-size-fits-all solution. Unlike benzoyl peroxide which delivers fast results by directly killing acne-causing bacteria, tea tree oil tends to work more gradually. It may not be strong enough for severe acne, where prescription treatments or stronger actives might be needed. Another key consideration is its potency. Pure tea tree oil can be irritating, especially for sensitive skin. Using a diluted formulation or incorporating it into a carrier oil or pre-formulated product is the best way to avoid dryness, redness, or allergic reactions.

For those looking to integrate tea tree oil into their routine, spot treatments, toners, and lightweight serums are great options. Pairing it with soothing ingredients like Centella asiatica can help balance its potency while still reaping its acne-fighting benefits. While it may not replace prescription treatments, tea tree oil remains a valuable ingredient for those seeking a gentler and plant-based approach to clearer skin.

The Body Shop Tea Tree Skin Clearing Toner

P795, Lazada

iUNIK Tea Tree Relief Serum

P1,100, Lazada

Alpha-Hydroxy Acids (AHAs: Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid): The Skin Refiners

While BHAs like salicylic acid dive deep into pores to clear out oil and debris, AHAs focus on the surface, dissolving dead skin cells to reveal fresher and more radiant skin. These water-soluble acids help refine texture, fade discoloration, and give dull skin a much-needed boost.

Glycolic acid, the smallest and most potent AHA, penetrates deeply to smooth rough patches and fade post-acne marks, making it a favorite for those looking to even out their complexion as well. On the other hand, lactic acid offers a gentler alternative, hydrating the skin as it exfoliates which is ideal for those who want the benefits of chemical exfoliation without the risk of irritation.

AHAs are particularly beneficial for those dealing with both breakouts and uneven skin tone, as they not only keep pores clear but also help fade hyperpigmentation. Their exfoliating power, however, comes with a downside: they can make the skin more sensitive to the sun. Daily sunscreen should be non-negotiable when using AHAs, as UV exposure can undo the progress and lead to further damage. Used correctly, though, they can definitely transform your skin and help in achieving smoother, more luminous skin.

Paula’s Choice 8% AHA Gel Exfoliant

P2,400, Paula’s Choice

KraveBeauty Kale-Lalu-Yaha Gentle AHA Exfoliator

P1,760, Sephora

Benefit Cosmetics The POREfessional Shrink Wrap Overnight AHA+PHA Pore Treatment

P3,050, Sephora


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