Going green, eating clean, and other lifestyle shifts, trends, and changes have been all the rage in recent years, much more so in a post-pandemic world. But when it comes to the bright (ideally!) green powder, the love and fondness for it certainly goes beyond its supposed better-than-coffee benefits.
Green is in, and we’re talking about the perfectly vibrant green of matcha, indicative of a high-grade, good-quality drink. If starting the day with avocado toast was the benchmark of a health-conscious lifestyle in the 2010s, are matcha drinks today’s equivalent?
Matcha, the art of it, its careful practice, and the history it originates from all add to the rich experience and deep enjoyment it gives. From its Japanese roots to the principles attached to it, down to where to get started and matcha recipes to try, we immerse into the curious, fascinating world of matcha.
Where did matcha originate from?
All teas from around the world started in China and it spread through trade. In 1191, Eisai, a Zen Buddhist Monk who spent a few years in China studying Buddhism, introduced tea in powdered form when he returned to Japan. Matcha was enjoyed in temples, at court, and then later on among the warrior class—which eventually evolved to Chado or Japanese Tea Ceremony which means “Way of Tea.”
“In Chado, we practice making matcha and serving it to guests. However, as it is a way, or a path, it goes much deeper than that. It invites you to explore the depths of our existence through the simple act of sharing a bowl of tea,” says Naomi Mes, a member of the Urasenke Tankokai Manila Association. Urasenke is one of the three tea schools in Japan that teach the tradition of Chado or Chanoyou.
What is matcha?
Matcha is powdered tea from Japan, made from Camellia Sinensis (a type of evergreen shrub or small tree commonly called a tea plant), where other green teas originate from—the difference depends on how it is processed. Matcha comes from tencha or unground matcha. Before picking, the leaves are shaded using straw or plastic in order for them to develop their sweetness and chlorophyll, which gives them their bright green color. Depending on the grade, the leaves can either be picked by hand or by a machine during spring and autumn, then steamed, dried, and finally, milled.
Is there good or bad matcha?
Yes, definitely. Ideally, matcha is milled using an ishi uzu (stone mill) using tea leaves grown and processed in Japan. But with rising demand across the world, commercially sold matcha can also be milled using a ball mill—this is usually lower in quality, like the ones used in lattes and other culinary applications.
Matcha that is milled using a stone mill is finer in texture which gives a creamier end product that make the great usucha (thin tea) or koicha (thick tea), where both only use water. Meanwhile, matcha milled using a commercial mill tends to have bigger particles that work best for mixing with drinks like a latte, soft serve ice cream, or baked goods.
How can I tell if matcha is good or bad?
“Sourcing is going to be important because 60 percent of matcha in the global market is actually from China, and that’s fine, but matcha is Japanese. It’s a Japanese product,” shares Marc, founder and owner of Ooika, a U.S.-based company that pioneers in milling their matcha fresh outside Japan. “For it to be authentic matcha, it must be from Japan, if it’s not from Japan, then it’s ground green tea. The reason why companies are allowed to call ground green tea from China as matcha is because there is no international standard definition that’s set.”
Be wary of marketing terms like ceremonial-grade and culinary-grade because one brand’s ceremonial grade can be another brand’s lowest culinary-grade due to the lack of a standard definition. The easiest way to find good matcha is to—initially— purchase from reputable Japanese brands.
“Second thing [to sourcing] is handling. Matcha after it has been milled needs to be kept cold and vacuum sealed,” says Marc. “If you’re going to buy matcha, especially in the Philippines, which is quite warm, you want to make sure you are buying it from a seller who is keeping it cold or at least, cool. It shouldn’t be in room temperature.”
To help narrow down the options, it’s best to ask cafes and sellers these two questions: “Where do you get your matcha from?” and “How do you store it?” Their answers will be good indications of the quality apart from its physical attributes like color and smell.
Higher grades, like competition grade, of matcha come in a brilliant green color that sometimes can have notes of blue because they are straw-shaded for longer, a process called kabuse, which literally means to cover or shade from the sun. It allows the tea leaves to grow tender and to develop umami flavors. Other grades of matcha are usually covered with plastic and still end up in a beautiful green color, but it noticeably won’t be as vibrant. As the matcha grade goes down the scale, the color gets dull.
Matcha also oxidizes fast when exposed to sunlight and oxygen, which might also be the reason why the matcha you see in some shops is yellowish or even brown.
Which matcha is best for lattes, and which ones are great on their own?
“Firstly, there are no grades of matcha. Generally speaking, what ceremonial and culinary refer to is not the quality, it’s how the maker of the matcha expects you to use it,” shares Marc.
“For very high-quality matcha, you would never use it with milk or sugar or anything like that,” Marc continues. “First off, it will be ridiculous in terms of the price, but more importantly, it will taste really bad because you would get all these weird flavors that don’t mix.” Think umami notes such as bonito flakes or vegetal like asparagus mixed with milk—it doesn’t sound like a good idea, right?
It’s a common misconception that one should use the highest grade possible when making your lattes, but that’s not the case. Higher-grade matcha can be compared to specialty coffee which is served black in order to appreciate its aroma and nuanced flavors. Matcha paired with milk needs to have boldness and stronger flavors for it to translate into the latte—complementing its sweetness and milkiness.
How important is it to use the traditional tools for making matcha?
“First of all, for [making] matcha lattes, none of that is important at all. You can use whatever, but the only thing I do recommend is a sifter,” says Marc. “Sift your matcha. Higher quality matcha needs to be sifted more, lower quality matcha doesn’t have to be sifted as much.” Either way, sifting matcha prevents having clumps in the drink. A water bottle or a small jar with a lid can also be used as a matcha frother, as it’s going on top of the milk.
“For usucha, you still don’t really need [a chasen or a bamboo whisk if you don’t have them]. You can take an electric frother—those are great,” Marc quips. “Since this is about accessibility, can I make an usucha that tastes 90 percent of the way there with a blending stick? For many people, that is good enough. If you are starting out, you can start with whisks made in China or Korea, and then eventually you can invest later on. I think that starting with that [fine tools] are not necessary and sometimes can be detrimental because you’re just getting into it and you have this wall of money that you have to pay to get through—like buying an expensive chasen—and you don’t really know [yet] if you like matcha, then that’s a tall order.”
The importance of having a well-made Japanese chasen only comes into consideration for those who prefer to drink matcha as an usucha, as these whisks are handmade and have tapered prongs that help cut through the liquid and allow one to create a micro-foam. This will elevate the experience because the mouthfeel will be different—it’s going to be creamy and will bring out the flavors of the matcha.
Chasen that are made in Japan usually come from one area and it’s in Takayama, where there are only 13 to 14 families recognized by the government as the ones behind the making of these beautiful tea tools. These are mostly used by the tea schools, such as Urasenke. It’s also worth noting that the chasen is the only disposable utensil in the practice of tea-making. The makers of the chasen liken this tool to fresh fish. Eventually, it should be replaced with a new one.
“How necessary is it? In a formal tea ceremony, [it is] very necessary. In making your usucha at home, I don’t think it’s really necessary,” quips Marc.
Remember that matcha is a suspension and does not dissolve into liquids, so over time, there might be separation between the water and the matcha or the milk and the matcha.
Are there health benefits to matcha?
Drinking matcha is equivalent to consuming the entire leaf, which likewise equates to the consumption of antioxidants and chlorophyll. Yes, matcha has L-Theanine and caffeine which are believed to be behind the calm, focused energy one gets, as opposed to drinking coffee, but as Marc points out, “Until 2014, there were virtually no studies about matcha [in English] at all.” There is still much to be uncovered as most studies are in Japanese.
On the other hand, the practice of Chado can have holistic effects on the mind and spirit. People also use matcha [specifically in Chado] to go through a personal journey as well as help build stronger connections with others through Ichigo Ichie—which means making the most out of every moment.
“I’d like to draw your attention to the four key principles of Chado—Wa, Kei, Sei, Jaku. These four characters mean Harmony, Respect, Purity, and Tranquility,” shares Mes. “Harmony is when we gather around a tea bowl, we realize we exist in harmony: with each other, with nature, and with the present moment. Respect is [when a tea ceremony] guest bows to the host and to the fellow guests, to show respect with each other. Purity [is when] the host prepares the tearoom and cleans the utensils meticulously to show purity of heart and intention.” And finally, tranquility. “In Chado, we find tranquility in quietness. You can listen to the sound of boiling water, the sound of the whisk making the tea, and even the rustling of the leaves outside.”
In hindsight, for those who have been getting into the practice of tea, or have grown a liking into preparing their matcha at home in the morning, or at any time of the day, and find it a ritual that’s calming and grounding—then this may just be the reason why.
Matcha Do’s and Don’ts
Do keep your matcha in a cool, dark place free of strong scents. Your refrigerator is best for short-term storage, while others freeze in a sealed container to store it for a little while longer.
Do store your matcha in an opaque and airtight container because matcha degrades and oxidizes when exposed to light and air.
Do double-check when you purchase your matcha. Check its grind date or at least the expiration date, its origins, and so on. Remember that not all matcha are created equal—some are not even from Japan.
Do play around with different flavor combinations and have fun! Try making your own strawberry matcha latte, for example; matcha with calamansi also pairs well when you don’t want it with milk; and matcha latte with chai works, too.
Don’t be afraid to try different brands of matcha until you find your favorite one, because taste is always subjective. Matcha comes in a variety of flavor notes depending on where in Japan it is grown and processed so there are multiple options for you!
Don’t use boiling water with your matcha and use lukewarm at most. This will prevent your matcha from developing unwanted bitterness and astringency.
Don’t be afraid to ask about where your matcha is from. Just like coffee, matcha can come in different blends and are produced by different families in Japan. Transparency is important, too!
WHAT DO YOU NEED?
Matcha
You can try matcha from well-established brands such as Marukyu Koyamaen (you’ve probably seen this all over TikTok), Ippodo Tea, or Yamamasa Koyamaen to start and then explore from there until you find the one you truly like.
Yamamasa Koyamaen Matsukaze 30g
P580, Shopee
Image courtesy of Sazen Tea
Marukyu Koyamaen Yugen 40g
P960, Uji Matcha PH
Image courtesy of Marukyu Koyamaen
Ippodo Tea Ikuyo No Mukashi 30g
P650, Shopee
Image courtesy of Ippodo Tea
Electric Frother
If you are a coffee lover, then you most likely have this nifty tool in your arsenal. It’s one of the easiest ways to froth up for matcha to be used for your lattes.
B Coffee Co. Milk Frother
P199, Lazada
Subminimal Nanofoamer V2
P2,247.57, Amazon
Chasen (Bamboo Whisk), Chashaku (Bamboo Tea Ladle), and other accessories
When you want to experience the traditional way of making matcha, then you can use a bamboo whisk and a ladle. Not all are created equal, but if you are starting out, it’s okay to go with the simplest one. If you are looking to invest in a high-quality, hand-made whisk and ladle, then go for the ones that are made in Japan and specifically from Takayama—especially if you want to elevate your usucha or koicha.
The Matcha Tokyo Black bamboo chasen
P2,340, Mitsukoshi BGC
Shin-no-kazuho Takayama Chasen
P3,081, Shopee
Ippodo Tea Chashaku
P839, Shopee
Tea Strainer
P495, Muji
Chawan
The bowl made for preparing matcha can come in a variety of Japanese designs, but there are also a few local potters and ceramicists who create these beautiful bowls.
Joey De Castro Pottery
A famous potter based here in Manila, his works are usually on display and on sale during the yearly Art in the Park Philippines or the MAarte Fair. You can also contact him and visit his showroom located in Mandaluyong City.
Ureshii PH
They source different ceramic and home pieces and sell them through their Instagram or their physical store in Sta. Mesa, Manila. They regularly release matcha-centric pieces that are sourced from Japan so keep your eyes peeled.
Bumi and Ashe
They hold workshops on pottery where they teach you using a wheel or by hand-building. Recently, they have been doing workshops focused on making your own chawan or matcha bowl. You can check their website for the schedule.
WHERE TO GO?
On the hunt for a proper matcha experience in Manila? There are multiple locations that vary in personality and selection of matcha-based drinks. Plot them out and try them one by one.
Ito Space
Tucked in Legaspi Village, Makati is a six-seater beverage space that offers tea and coffee sessions in the afternoon and cocktail sessions in the evening. You can specifically book the Matcha Series 2.0—for roughly 45 minutes of pure matcha bliss.
Matcha Mama
They started as a matcha bottle delivery service known for their fun combinations like Matcha Chai and Matcha Horchata, but they now have a permanent space in Quezon City that serve up their famous drinks and gelato. Bonus: The place—and matcha—are super Instagrammable too!
Matchanese
Head to this quirky matcha bar when you’re in the mood for some strong matcha lattes because they offer strength options that go up to level five. Not only that, but they are known to hold regular matcha workshops if you want to learn more about matcha, various origins, and more.
The Matcha Tokyo
Have you seen the long lines at Mitsukoshi Mall and a few more locations around Metro Manila? Well, this matcha spot franchised from Japan is the reason. They have an extensive menu that allow you to experience matcha in multiple ways, such as soft-serve ice cream, pastries, and even the traditional usucha.
Tsujiri
Probably the brand to get ahead of the matcha game in Manila is Tsujiri, as they’ve already opened up multiple locations over the years. They’re not only known for their selection of matcha treats, but also for traditional Japanese desserts!
RECIPES
Ready to try your hand at matcha-making? Here are recipes you can start with.
Usucha
1.5g to 2g of high-grade matcha
70ml water at 80C
Onto a bowl, weigh and sift your matcha to remove clumps, carefully add your lukewarm (not boiling) water. Froth using an electric frother or chasen.
When using a chasen, use with light hands and move with your wrists, do not let the tines of your whisk drag at the bottom of your bowl. Whisk in a “w” or an “m” shape.
Matcha Latte
4g matcha
50ml water at around 70C to 80C
15 to 20ml sweetener of choice
120ml milk of choice
Ice cubes (if iced)
Onto a bowl, weigh and sift your matcha to remove clumps. In a separate glass, add your sweetener, ice cubes, and your milk. Add lukewarm water into your bowl with matcha, whisk until fully incorporated. Pour onto your glass with milk.
