The Rise of Talc-Free Beauty: Why Brands Are Reformulating

A common ingredient long embroiled in controversy, talc is once again under scrutiny following the World Health Organization’s latest advisory. Could this signal the end of talc-based makeup?
Reading Time: 7 minutes

In the Philippines, baby powder—or pulbos, as our moms would call it—has long been a staple in every household. Used to freshen up in the humid climate and to mattify the skin, it might even be the first “makeup” item you ever used as a preteen. Talc, the main ingredient in baby or talcum powder, likely followed you through your beauty journey, too. It can be found in foundations, eyeshadows, lipsticks, and, of course, in the loose or pressed powders we use to set our faces.

With talc being such a common ingredient in makeup, it’s both shocking and unsettling to learn that the World Health Organization recently classified it as “probably carcinogenic to humans”—the second highest level of certainty that a substance can cause cancer. This update is based on studies showing a possible link between talc and ovarian cancer in humans, plus strong evidence from lab tests on animals and how the substance behaves in the body. Previously, talc was listed as “possibly carcinogenic,” making this reclassification a significant development.

So why is talc still widely used in makeup and personal care products? And what are beauty brands doing about this controversial ingredient? In this story, we break down exactly what talc is, how it’s used in cosmetics, and what safer alternatives are available.

What is Talc?

Talc is a mineral that is mined from the earth. It’s made up of magnesium, silicone, hydrogen, and oxygen, and its composition allows it to absorb moisture and reduce friction. Its unique properties mean it can prevent or relieve rashes from prickly heat, absorb sweat and oil, and mattify the skin, leaving a smooth, soft finish.

This mineral is acquired primarily through open-pit mining. Holes are drilled into the rocks, and explosives are loaded into them. Since talc is the softest mineral according to the Mohs hardness scale (which measures mineral hardness), the explosives are carefully controlled to minimize the blast and prevent breakage in the ore. Once collected, talc is crushed and milled to the size needed for it to be manufactured into different products. If the talc contains impurities, it is calcined or heat-treated to remove them. 

The Asbestos Risk

Here’s where things get complicated. When talc is mined, it must be tested for asbestos—a naturally occurring silicate mineral that, unlike talc, has a different crystal structure and is known to be carcinogenic. While pure, uncontaminated talc is generally considered safe, asbestos can cause serious harm when inhaled or ingested. It damages the lining of the lungs and other internal tissues, leading to inflammation, scarring, and even DNA damage.

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Because talc and asbestos often occur close to each other in nature, cross-contamination is difficult to avoid, especially given the microscopic size of asbestos fibers.

Because talc and asbestos often occur close to each other in nature, cross-contamination is difficult to avoid, especially given the microscopic size of asbestos fibers. Shockingly, the U.S. has no complete ban on asbestos. Although its use has been heavily restricted, it still appears in some industrial materials—and in some talc products.

In 2024 alone, asbestos-contaminated talc was at the center of 751 lawsuit filings in the U.S.The biggest recipient of these lawsuits in the cosmetics industry is Johnson & Johnson. The main ingredient in their Baby Powder used to be talc, and the product has been at the center of numerous lawsuits, with plaintiffs claiming it is contaminated with asbestos and causes cancer. As of now, Johnson & Johnson is facing over 58,000 lawsuits related to their talcum powder products. While the company has been ordered to pay billions to plaintiffs, it continues to deny that its talcum products are contaminated with asbestos.

Talc in Beauty Products Today

While mired in controversy, talc hasn’t been completely banned for use in cosmetics. Its history goes back to ancient Egypt, where it was used in face powders and eyeshadow bases. Today, it can still be found in everything from setting powders to blush, thanks to its oil-absorbing properties and smooth finish. Talc also acts as a filler, helping dilute pigments to make products more blendable and user-friendly.

Still, growing concern around talc—especially after its reclassification by the WHO—has led to a noticeable shift in the beauty industry. Both heritage brands and newer indie players are responding to consumer demand and evolving safety standards by reformulating existing products or launching entirely talc-free lines.

The Shift to Talc-free

The prime example: Johnson & Johnson’s popular Johnson’s Baby Powder is now made with cornstarch—it, too, can absorb moisture and oil like talc can. Tapioca starch, arrowroot starch, and kaolin clay are other alternatives to talc. In makeup, the most popular talc substitute is mica, valued for its versatility in finishes—from matte to shimmery—and its ability to enhance a product’s performance, adhesion, and longevity.

Big beauty players like Chanel, Revlon, and L’Oreal have also started to shift away from using talc due to consumer preferences and controversy from cancer lawsuits in the U.S. Chanel has removed talc from its Poudre Universelle Libre, eyeshadows, blushes, and other powder products. 

Meanwhile, Givenchy faced strong criticism when it reformulated its Prisme Libre loose powders by replacing talc with kaolin clay and mica. Loyal users noticed a dramatic change in texture and performance, underscoring how difficult it is to replace talc without compromising product feel and finish.

The impact of talc litigation has also been significant. Estée Lauder Companies saw their earnings take a hit in late 2024, with brands like Bobbi Brown and Clinique having to pay out settlement charges. While the conglomerate has been quiet about its move to talc-free alternatives, M.A.C Cosmetics recently made headlines when it reformulated its cult-favorite Studio Fix Powder Foundation to be talc-free—a major shift for a product that’s held the title of best-selling foundation in the U.S. since 1992.

Newer brands like Rare Beauty, Merit Beauty, Kosas, and Huda Beauty, on the other hand, have opted to launch talc-free from the start. While the term “clean beauty” remains a loaded one, many indie and emerging brands have leaned into it as a way to communicate transparency and ingredient safety to their customers.

In the Philippines, cosmetic-grade talc is still allowed in makeup, based on a 2018 advisory from the Food and Drug Administration. The FDA requires proof from manufacturers that their talc is asbestos-free. However, with the World Health Organization upgrading talc’s carcinogenic status just last year, the advisory is now outdated. It may be time for the FDA to re-evaluate its stance—especially as the European Union is in the process of banning talc in cosmetics entirely.

While talc hasn’t disappeared completely, the growing availability of talc-free options means consumers now have more power to choose what feels right for them.

What’s Next?

As the industry reckons with talc’s complicated history and legacy, the shift toward safer, more transparent formulations signals a positive step forward. As we’ve seen, brands are listening, innovating, and rethinking old standards—not just in response to controversy, but in service of a more informed and health-conscious beauty community. While talc hasn’t disappeared completely, the growing availability of talc-free options means consumers now have more power to choose what feels right for them. And with science, regulation, and advocacy moving in step, the beauty industry is evolving steadily, and in a safer direction.

Talc-Free Favorites

Steering clear of talc doesn’t mean sacrificing quality. These standout setting powders deliver on finish, wear, and skin feel—proof that performance and clean formulations can go hand in hand.

M.A.C Studio Fix Powder Plus Foundation

P2,350, Rustan’s


The best-selling formula just got a major upgrade—now featuring a refined “blur-matte” finish with 24-hour oil control (up from the previous 12-hour claim) and a talc-free base that also helps reduce ashiness on deeper skin tones. While some longtime users are still adjusting to the changes, the expanded shade range and refillable packaging mark a thoughtful step forward.

NARS Light Reflecting Loose Setting Powder

P2,150, Lazada

For a glowy, radiant finish, set your skin with this loose powder from NARS. The talc-free formula creates a soft focus effect, reducing the appearance of wrinkles and pores. We also love how the mesh shifter helps reduce mess whenever you’re setting your makeup.

Issy Weightless Loose Powder

P499, Lazada

This cornstarch-based powder eliminates shine without cutting glow, making it the perfect camera-ready companion. It blurs the skin without highlighting texture or making your face look cakey. It’s also formulated with vitamin E to help protect the skin against environmental aggressors. 

Shiseido Synchro Skin Invisible Silk Loose Powder

P2,650, Lazada

This talc-free powder applies thinly on the skin, yet it’s able to add glow, reduce shine, and adapt to the movements of your face so that it doesn’t separate and settle in fine lines, wrinkles, and pores.

Chu Chü Beauty Yummy Yum Skin Loose Powder

P349, Lazada

This ultra-fine powder helps reduce shine and gives your makeup a soft matte finish without looking or feeling heavy. It has a translucent formula that won’t disrupt the makeup under it, and you can even use it to bake your under-eye area. 

Huda Beauty Easy Bake Loose Powder

P2600, Lazada

If you love baking your face, you can bake worry-free with Huda Beauty’s loose powder. The talc-free formula is popular among beauty lovers. It has an airbrush finish and lasts up to 16 hours. It also comes in a number of shades so that you can find your perfect match or brighten your skin with color-correcting shades.

Hourglass Ambient Lighting Powder

P4,080, Sephora.ph

This cult classic powder does it all: it diffuses light, adds a glow to your skin, blurs imperfections, and sets your makeup for all-day wear. It also has color-correcting particles that help refine the skin’s appearance without creasing or caking. 

ADDITIONAL REPORTING BY ELAINE NATIVIDAD REYES.

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