“My passion is not just in the creation of fragrances,” says Bernadette Lim, who goes by the name @thefragrancespecialist on Instagram, which boasts a 22,000-plus follower count as of writing. “It extends to influencing the makers and brand owners to develop a deeper understanding of scents and how intangible aspects like fragrances can impact their businesses.”
Fifteen years into the craft, Lim finds herself in the middle of probably every thinkable aspect that involves the business of scents, from creation, appreciation, importing, and manufacturing to teaching students to blend notes and guiding makers and entrepreneurs to craft special fragrances.
At this point, there’s no limit as to where the fragrant path will take her next. But one thing’s for sure, it’s a journey that Bernadette would want fans and enthusiasts to discover and explore, indulge in the processes of scents-making, observe the art and creativity that merits it, and appreciate the nuances of every unique creation. Here, she lets us into her first influences, the ins and outs of her work, the lessons she’s learned so far, and ultimately, the state of the business of fragrance in the Philippines and where it’s headed next.
Early scents awakening
“My dad is a businessman and was a frequent traveler. He’d always give my mom perfumes from his trips. My mom loved them, but not for the scents. She loved collecting the bottles.
When my sister and I were in high school, we noticed our mom ended up amassing a lot of perfumes over the years, most of which were barely used. So we would usually sneak into my parents’ room and try on the perfumes before we went to sleep! Sometimes we would “borrow” them and spray them on our beds, conveniently forgetting to return them. “It would be a waste not to use them,” we would say.”
Birth of the business
“I started my business, BC Fragrance, officially in January 2009. It all started when the perfumes I created for my parents’ clients as Christmas gifts in December 2008 gained interest and re-orders.
Today, I work with brands to create their signature scents. My approach is both collaborative and deeply immersive. I begin by thoroughly understanding the brand’s identity, ethos, and the specific message they wish to communicate through their fragrance. This process is akin to how signature scents in luxury hotels or boutiques are developed—they are not just fragrances, but vital components of the brand’s story and customer experience. My goal is to craft a scent that not only aligns with the brand’s image but also elevates it, creating a memorable and distinctive atmosphere for their customers.
For retail brands seeking to develop fragrances as part of their lifestyle product line, be it for clothing or other merchandise, understanding their target market is key. This involves exploring the preferences, lifestyles, and aspirations of their customers. The fragrance must resonate with and reflect the audience’s identity, instead of merely following trends or popular choices.”
The highs and lows
“To me, what’s most captivating about the work I do is the ability to craft scents that infuse joy into people’s lives, whether through a product or beautifully scented spaces. The entire process of translating intangible emotions, memories, and concepts into actual scents that create genuine connections with people is incredibly fulfilling.
On the other hand, the intricate challenge in this work lies in weaving chemistry, innovation, and tradition within an ever-shifting fragrance landscape that encompasses trends and regulatory changes. Meeting the demands of customers who seek sustainable and “clean” scents while adhering to budget limitations adds another layer of complexity. These challenges only fuel my passion to excel and to learn further.”
“As a perfumer in the Philippines, I have learned that it is important to be patient, to not be afraid to explore, and to be open to new ideas.
Over the years, I’ve also learned that 99 percent of experiments don’t work out, but the 1 percent that do make the journey worthwhile.”
–Bernadette Lim
Behind the scents
“There are so many things to talk about that I wish people would know more about the work I do, but here are three main points.
First is that it takes years of training and experience to become a perfumer. Once a perfumer has the skills, it can still take weeks or even months to create a new fragrance because scents don’t just blend instantly. Each blend requires countless iterations and adjustments to achieve a desired direction, and once finalized, it takes time for fragrances to macerate and mature to become a finished product—unlike with designer dupes.
Second is that original perfumer-designed fragrances are expensive not just because of the brand they carry but also because of the time and effort that goes into creating a fragrance, especially for brands that prioritize unique creations, again, over designer dupe imitations.
Lastly, it’s that perfumery is not just about mixing oils haphazardly. Perfumers meticulously navigate stringent regulatory restrictions to ensure fragrances are safe, especially for products intended for skin applications, be it perfumes, cosmetics, or hair and personal care products.”
A good nose
“For me, a good nose is someone who fundamentally has a good sense of smell (of course!), can effectively translate ideas and emotions into a scent, possesses an extensive olfactory memory, and has a strong foundation of fragrance chemistry. Most important, a good nose must be patient and willing to experiment with new combinations to create complex aromatic stories.
Meanwhile, a good fragrance specialist should have a comprehensive understanding of fragrances beyond personal preferences and have effective communication skills to convey the intricate world of fragrances to a diverse audience.
For me, both professions require being a perpetual learner and keeping up to date with trends and new ingredients.”
Key takeaways
“As a perfumer in the Philippines, I have learned that it is important to be patient, to not be afraid to explore, and to be open to new ideas. Over the years, I’ve also learned that 99 percent of experiments don’t work out, but the 1 percent that do make the journey worthwhile.
Over the decade and a half that I’ve been in the fragrance industry, I recognize the reality that perfumery is yet to be fully recognized as an art form in the Philippines. Our market is so used to imported scents (and dupes thereof) that we haven’t given perfumery proper attention as something that people can pick up as a craft, even more so, a profession. I hope that one day, we get to the point where local perfumers can flourish in crafting distinctive and innovative fragrances that mirror our unique culture and aspirations.”
THE FILIPINO FRAGRANCE LANDSCAPE
Running and sustaining a business is no walk in the park, even more so in an industry that’s just about to take off. The local fragrance market is bustling and booming, for sure, but there are more roads to conquer and paths to explore. For Bernadette, being a major player in the scene comes with her fair share of challenges, but is hopeful with slivers of success, too.
First things first, did you ever think of formally studying being a nose in France?
Bernadette Lim: Certainly, the idea crossed my mind. In retrospect, while studying in France, the epicenter of perfumery, would have been a prestigious opportunity, the path I took has been equally fulfilling. It has given me the flexibility to grow within the context of our family business while developing a deep, experiential understanding of perfumery.
The study of perfumery isn’t confined to France alone, with the global availability of raw materials and the advent of online learning platforms. It is, after all, an art that requires continuous learning, practice, and experience. It’s not something that can be fully grasped in a single course or classroom setting.
Through practical experience and various educational opportunities, I’ve learned the nuances of scent creation, the intricacies of raw materials, and the subtleties of fragrance blending. They’ve allowed me to understand not just the science behind fragrances, but also the art and emotion that each scent can evoke.
Why do you think Filipino noses are few and far between?
Bernadette Lim: Well, it’s a mix of things. For starters, a lot of people in the Philippines don’t really know much about becoming a perfumer. It’s not something you hear about every day as a profession. And then there’s this connotation that Filipinos are only into designer dupes, or that we can’t match up to the big international names—so what’s the point of studying perfumery if you have no market for custom fragrances? That’s a bit of a downer, and it can really hold back talented folks from diving into this world.
Also, we don’t have many places here to learn the ropes of perfumery formally. It’s the reason why I also had to go to the U.S., Singapore, Thailand, and Hong Kong for that, as there are no schools or big programs dedicated to the study in the Philippines.
And let’s not forget the cost factor. Studying perfumery, especially abroad, can be pretty pricey. There are tuition fees, travel costs, accommodation, and living expenses, to name a few. It’s one thing to dream, but another to have the resources to chase the dream.
All these things combined: the lack of awareness, the mindset, the absence of local learning opportunities, and the costs, I believe all add up to why we don’t see many Filipino noses in the industry. But hey, with a bit more exposure, support, and maybe some local training opportunities, who knows what the future holds, right?
What do you think are the biggest challenges perfumers face in this industry?
Bernadette Lim: One significant challenge is changing the mentality that Filipino brands are only capable of producing duplicates of designer fragrances. This perception undervalues the creativity and skill of local perfumers.
Additionally, there’s an ongoing struggle to incorporate locally harvested and processed materials in what we make. Cultural associations, particularly with flowers like sampaguita, frangipani, and ylang-ylang, which are often linked to religious or funeral practices, pose unique challenges in their utilization in mainstream perfumery. It’s a shame because these materials are well utilized by fragrance houses in other countries, showcasing their potential that’s yet to be fully embraced in our own industry.
Then there’s the major obstacle which is the availability and cost of materials, working with limited resources, and the high expenses in procuring ingredients. Many brands that operate with low budgets find themselves confined to creating designer duplicates as these are more affordable and readily available. This limits the scope for originality and innovation in scent creation.
Still, there have been significant successes. From the exports of local brands using our scents to curating and designing fragrances for malls, we’re slowly seeing a shift toward recognizing and valuing Filipino creativity and expertise in the industry.
How do you see the future of fragrance in the Philippines?
Bernadette Lim: The future of the fragrance business in the Philippines is more dynamic and promising than ever. An exciting development I’d like to share: I was recently invited as a judge for the inaugural Asia Perfume Foundation Awards at the 2024 Perfume Culture Festival in Hong Kong, where I brought with me a handful of deserving artisan, niche, and indie Philippine fragrance brands to showcase as well. For me, it was a huge chance to highlight the diversity and richness of Filipino-made fragrances, from the luxurious and exotic to the comfortingly familiar.
The growing interest and knowledge in fragrances among Filipinos, fueled by active Facebook ‘fraghead’ communities and a growing appreciation for local brands, perfectly set the stage for this. It’s a testament to how far we’ve come and our potential to grow even further.
Can the Philippines produce perfumes at the level of niche houses?
Bernadette Lim: We have the potential, but there’s still work to be done in terms of raw material sourcing, innovation, and refining craftsmanship. With the right investment and appreciation for local talent and resources, I believe we can achieve this level of quality.
How can one be a successful Filipino fragrance brand?
Bernadette Lim: Here, the magic lies in marrying affordability with quality. Filipinos have a keen eye for quality, but ultimately, it’s the price that seals the deal. The brands that thrive are those that nail this balance, effectively using social media for wide reach and competitive pricing, complemented by packaging that’s both attractive and cost-effective.
It’s also about making these scents both desirable and reachable. This involves a blend of online engagement, tapping into the vast audience of social media, and offline experiences like pop-up shops or in-store events where customers can truly connect with the fragrances.
A crucial aspect of brand-building here is fostering a community. In the Filipino market, personal recommendations hold more weight compared to markets like the U.S. and Europe, where influencer and expert reviews often sway consumer choices.
What makes a Filipino scent truly Filipino?
Bernadette Lim: A Filipino scent would capture the essence of our culture, nature, and experiences. It’s a blend of our tropical environment, our rich history, and our vibrant spirit—something uniquely ours yet universally appealing.
It’s the vibrant, festive notes of our fiestas, the warm, inviting aroma of garlic and onions wafting from grandma’s kitchen, and the sweet, floral whisper of sampaguita strung in my grandmother’s hair. It’s the earthy dampness of our rainforests after a downpour, the salty breeze carrying the scent of coconut oil from sun-kissed beaches, and the juicy burst of mangoes and pineapples overflowing from bustling markets.
These scents paint a vivid picture of who we are—a mosaic of culture, history, and spirit. Imagine the delicate jasmine, used in countless international perfumes, dismissed by some locals as “too common,” yet holding within its petals the memory of childhood evenings spent gathering under moonlit sampaguita trees; or the comforting sandalwood, whispering stories of our ancient trade routes and colonial influences, adding a touch of warm mystery to any fragrance.
Our resilience, warmth, and vibrancy shine through in the citrus burst of calamansi, the comforting embrace of pandan, and the playful zest of ginger. Each note tells a story, echoing the laughter of families at a barrio fiesta, the soothing hum of prayers amid rice fields, and the quiet strength of generations who have weathered storms and emerged with smiles.
A Filipino scent transcends borders, inviting the world to experience the Philippines through the universal language of aroma. It’s a symphony of nature, culture, and spirit, bottled and offered to the world. And as a perfumer, my passion lies in rediscovering these treasures, crafting contemporary fragrances that capture the essence of our people, in all its multifaceted beauty and complexity.
Lastly, what is your dream for the Filipino fragrance industry?
Bernadette Lim: My dream is to see Filipino fragrance brands recognized internationally, not just for their quality but for their unique representation of our culture and heritage. In the fragrance industry, we have the opportunity to create a narrative that transcends borders, one that shares the beauty of the Philippines through the universal language of scent. By embracing our roots and the richness of our culture, we can craft fragrances that are not only pleasing to the senses but also meaningful and representative of our identity as Filipinos.
As we continue to grow and innovate in this industry, my goal is to mentor and inspire the next generation of Filipino scent creators. Together, we can elevate Filipino fragrances to new heights, making them a proud and prominent part of the global fragrance conversation.
SCENTS DU JOUR
Constantly surrounded with smells, “it’s hard to stick with favorites,” Bernadette Lim admits. These days, she finds herself leaning towards bergamot, rose, lily of the valley, and amber-like scents, or the more sophisticated, sensual scents that have amber combined with florals.
Scent of the day: Powder from Perfumer H.
An unexpected favorite: Carthusia Terra Mia.
Pick-me-up scent: A usual go-to would be Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Pamplelune, layered with Tom Ford Grey Vetiver.
A scent to relax: A blend of essential oils made with bergamot, lavender, ylang-ylang, and cedarwood that I put in a diffuser before going to bed. I also use Ginger Lily and Blanc from Scentful Living.
A no-fail perfume: Dior Lucky topped with a couple of spritzes of Scent Studio’s Citrus Royale.
