Freshness, Funk, and Formulations: The Lowdown on Natural Deodorants

Chemical-free, natural deodorants have been surging in popularity recently, and quite understandably so. With more people being mindful of the ingredients they slather on their face, neck, and body, it was only a matter of time before underarms received the spotlight. Consumers, now more than ever, have become more aware and vigilant in knowing what goes on their skin and into their bodies. 

These natural deodorants were borne out of health concerns over the aluminum ingredients found in traditional deodorants. Claims of aluminum causing breast cancer and Alzheimer’s disease have prompted alternative formulations.

Although there has been no conclusive scientific evidence to prove this, the new wave of natural deodorants presents us with options for peace of mind. But still, the question stands: Should you make the switch? How important is it to understand deodorant formulations? As always, we consult with the experts to set the facts straight.

Understanding Underarms

Our body has two types of sweat glands. The eccrine sweat gland is found all over our skin and produces the watery sweat we experience when it’s hot or while we’re active. The second type is the apocrine sweat gland, located in our armpits and groin area.

Now, the sweat produced by these glands is not inherently stinky. The smell we perceive as body odor is created when bacteria feed on the proteins and fatty acids produced by these sweat glands. Given the fact that bacteria thrive in humid environments, our armpits become fertile grounds for this to occur. While that may sound a bit off putting, it’s good to remember that sweat is not a bad thing. It’s our body’s way to ventilate and regulate temperature. 

Deodorants versus Antiperspirants

Underarm products like deodorants and antiperspirants were created to solve two different things. It’s important to understand their differences to know which type is right for you, and it will give you a better understanding of natural deodorants as well (we’ll get to that later on). 

The long and short of it is–deodorants banish smell and antiperspirants fight sweat. 

Since bacteria are the cause of that stinky chemical reaction with sweat, we could manage that bacteria to prevent it from happening. Deodorants address that issue by killing bacteria and masking odor. To do this, deodorants often contain alcohol or antimicrobial agents such as triclosan, which is one of the most common deodorant ingredients. To inhibit bacteria from growing, triclosan creates a “salty” or “acidic” environment in your underarms. Deodorants also typically contain perfume, fragrance, or natural oils to mask the smell caused by any bacteria left behind. 

Antiperspirants, on the other hand, as the name suggests, prevent or reduce sweat production itself. The main agents for this are active aluminum ingredients such as aluminum chlorohydrate and aluminum-zirconium tetrachlorohydrate gly. When these aluminum salts react with the biomolecules found in sweat, this forms a gel plug that blocks the sweat gland duct. Aluminum also makes the skin’s pores contract, which further prevents sweat excretion and makes underarms significantly drier. 

The Issue–And The Reality

The debacle over aluminum-based antiperspirants stems from their supposed links to Alzheimer’s disease and breast cancer. However, such claims lack scientific evidence and require further research.

Aluminum exposure allegedly causes Alzheimer’s disease (a debate that started in the 1960s), but no proof has been found to support this, let alone evidence relating to antiperspirants. The Alzheimer’s Association clarifies that “studies have failed to confirm any role for aluminum in causing Alzheimer’s.” Keith Fargo, the director of scientific programs and outreach for the Alzheimer’s Association, explained to Teen Vogue that the only study suggesting a link between the two was deemed unreliable and therefore discredited.  

As for breast cancer, people were worried that the aluminum salts absorbed by underarms affect the estrogen receptors of breast cells. However, in reality, the skin only absorbs a fraction of aluminum from antiperspirants–roughly 0.012 percent.

Furthermore, there is no proven causation between aluminum and breast cancer. The American Cancer Society states that “no strong epidemiologic studies (studies in people) link breast cancer risk and antiperspirant use, and very little scientific evidence to support this claim.” They point out that previous studies should be interpreted with caution given the small sample size and research design limitations. 

On another note, deodorants and antiperspirants have also been blamed for causing less serious problems, such as darker underarms and yellow-stained clothing. 

Deodorants and antiperspirants can indeed darken underarms, but various elements come into play. Certain ingredients, for example, can serve as irritants for some people depending on their skin sensitivities. The common culprits are aluminum, alcohol, and fragrance. Hair removal methods such as plucking, waxing, and shaving can also cause hyperpigmentation. Other factors include over-exfoliation, tight clothing, and sweat, which can all damage or irritate the skin.  

As for those pesky armpit stains on shirts, those are certainly caused by the reaction between aluminum salts and sweat. 

The Takeaway 

Deodorant products containing aluminum are not harmful. However, they can cause skin reactions depending on the person’s skin type, hygiene habits, and underarm care. Dermatologist Mitch Jarin suggests checking out the website of FDA Philippines for the complete list of verified products. It’s also good to note that aluminum is specifically approved by the FDA as safe to use in antiperspirants.

For Nica Reyes, retail and training manager of Drunk Elephant Philippines, drugstore deodorants are considered safe because they pass FDA standards. It’s a matter of individual sensitivities. “At Drunk Elephant we teach our consumers to be “Suspiciously Curious”—which means checking the label… Ultimately, the best deodorant for you is one that effectively controls odor, doesn’t irritate your skin, and aligns with your personal preferences.”

THE CASE FOR NATURAL DEODORANTS

If regular deodorant products aren’t bad for us, what’s the purpose of natural ones, anyway? It all points to consumer demand and changing preferences. Clearly, when deodorants were first formulated in the 1940s, people did not pay much attention to formulations and potentially harmful ingredients. Now, things are different. People want to know what goes into beauty products and have a higher interest in clean, chemical-free beauty. 

“Consumers are prioritizing ingredient transparency, simplicity, and healthy living, opting for a more natural deodorant and causing manufacturers to rethink deodorant formulations,” says a Euromonitor International article that was written back in 2019. Fast forward to today, the thrust for clean beauty has never been more prominent and is creating more opportunities in the deodorant industry. The latest statistics forecast that the demand for “natural and organic deodorants” is increasing globally “as consumers prioritize health and sustainability.” 

What makes them natural?

There is no singular definition for “natural deodorant.” It can mean different things for different brands. Natural deodorants could be made with plant-based or vegan ingredients or could simply be free from aluminum, parabens, and phthalates. 

Just like aluminum, parabens and phthalates have been cast in a negative light due to their potential health risks. Parabens and phthalates are both endocrine disruptors (it affects the body’s production of hormones) and are known to have potential links to certain cancers. However, the American National Cancer Institute states that the link between parabens and breast cancer is unlikely. Moreover, deodorants rarely contain parabens nowadays but it is still best to check the label. 

Phthalates, on the other hand, are a group of synthetic chemicals present in a variety of things, from cosmetics, paints, and plastic packaging. They pose greater health risks when exposed to children but adults remain vulnerable. While many phthalate families have been banned, it’s best to avoid phthalate exposure in general. The problem is that phthalates are often unlisted on product labels because they are lumped under “fragrance.”  

Given these manifold concerns, natural deodorants are seen as the stress-free option and rightfully so–they have zero chemicals and are made with familiar ingredients that won’t leave us second-guessing. 

The disclaimer

That said, just because a deodorant is marketed as “natural” does not always mean it is “safe.” Board-certified dermatologist Dr. Mitch Carlos Tanchiong says, “Most popular natural deodorants have essential oils and baking soda. However, studies on their efficacy are limited and caution must be exercised as they may cause skin irritation.”

Dr. Katrina Habaluyas Luz, board certified-dermatologist and Mohs surgeon, shares the same thoughts: “Making the choice to use products with natural ingredients is absolutely fine. Bear in mind though that natural does not guarantee it is 100 percent risk-free. So before you apply these products with natural ingredients onto your armpits, make sure to do a patch test!”

MAKING THE SWITCH

If you’re considering making the switch, you should remember that natural deodorants will not decrease sweating because they don’t contain aluminum. The most they will do is control bacteria levels and mask body odor. So if you’re prone to heavy sweating, you might want to reconsider or slowly transition into natural deodorants to see how your body reacts. 

Another thing to keep in mind is that switching won’t be easy. Testimonials found online all experienced stinky underarms after using natural deodorants for the first time. This can last from a couple of days to a few weeks. Why does this happen? Our underarms have developed a specific microbiome that has been cultivated through years of using antiperspirants with aluminum salts. In other words, our armpits have their own ecosystem that’s pretty stable, so introducing a new kind of product and suddenly removing aluminum will trigger it to make adjustments. These adjustments will change the amount and types of bacteria in the underarm, resulting in strong body odor.  

But the pain of switching might actually be a good thing. Healthline mentions a small scientific study that discovered how traditional deodorants decrease the amount of corynebacterium which “provides a boost against infections.” People who did not use antiperspirants or deodorants had more of this kind of bacteria. 

Should you do an “armpit detox”?

If you’ve stumbled upon the term armpit detox before, you may have been tempted to actually whip up your own concoction. The armpit detox is typically made with bentonite clay and apple cider vinegar. This combination is believed to help speed up the ‘adjust time’ when transitioning to natural deodorants.

The viral practice claims to draw out toxins from the sweat glands and make underarms less smelly during this period. However, Dr. Kassouf tells the Cleveland Clinic, “There are no scientifically proven reasons to do a detox.”

Our bodies flush out toxins through the kidney, liver, and elimination (urination, defecation, and sweating). Applying an armpit detox paste will not draw out toxins. What it can do is eliminate bacteria and slough away dead skin cells as a face mask does. In a word, this detox isn’t necessary but it won’t hurt to try. 

Don’t sweat it–keep these tips in mind

When it comes to selecting underarm products in general, it all starts with knowing what your body needs and taking action. 

“Decide which product you need. Is it a deodorant to block odor and minimize bacteria or an antiperspirant to block excessive sweat?” says Dr. Tanchiong. “Find out what triggers your sweating, so you can reduce how much you sweat. If these measures don’t work out well, consult your board-certified dermatologist to find out what options are available.”

As for the specific ingredients to prioritize, Dr. Luz emphasizes that it’s more important to test the formulation: “The search for the ideal ingredient in an [underarm product] is a tough one… More than a single ingredient to look for, I think it’s best to look at the overall formulation of the product. And the next step would be trying it on your skin (patch test) to check your individualized reaction to that product.”

TOP DEOS ON OUR LIST

Mood by Coconut Matter 

A popular brand in Asia, this natural deodorant blends 16 plants and minerals to combat body odor and nourish the skin. 

Megababe

Known for their rose-scented deodorant, Megababe products rely on enzymes and extracts to break down bacteria. 

Glossier 

Glossier’s aluminum-free deodorant line uses magnesium hydroxide and potato starch to control odor. It features refillable packaging too.

Wild

Known for their refillable cases in various designs, these deodorants are mainly baking soda-based and packed with moisturizing natural ingredients. 

Salt and Stone

This brand’s clean deodorants are just as powerful as they are chic. They’re powered by baking soda that protects underarms for 48 hours.

MALIN + GOETZ

A bestseller for 13 years, this product’s claim to fame is the eucalyptus extract and citronellyl that neutralize odor. No armpit stains as well. 

Drunk Elephant

This soothing cream moisturizes and keeps odor at bay without baking soda, essential oils, or aluminum-derived ingredients. 

Necessaire

Necessaire deodorants focus on enhancing underarm appearance through AHA and niacinamide. Free from baking soda for sensitive skin. 

Native

This widely used brand offers a range of formats and formulations. They offer a line for sensitive skin and body sprays that are made with the same clean ingredients.   

Kosas

A serum deodorant that harnesses the power of AHAs to reduce odor and nourish the skin. Known for being strong enough to survive workouts. 

Collage by Dannah Valdezco. Woman puting on underarm deodorant by © Stockbyte. Monet oil painting by © milliehermajesty. Vintage spring flower by © quinta via canva.com