Technology, especially social media, has slowly been changing the beauty industry for the past few years. Back in 2018, Facebook declared that 46 percent of shoppers were already discovering makeup and skin care products online—and that was even before the pandemic accelerated our dependence on digital.
Post-Covid-19, the whole cycle exists online: We discover new products through organic posts and digital ads, and also through a multitude of videos, such as makeup transformations, beauty hauls, and trend-hacking trials. We dig deeper and search reviews from beauty and lifestyle media outlets and beauty content creators. We even crowdsource reviews and opinions on social media, forums, rating sites, or even a quick chat with one of our friends. Beauty trends are born (and die) faster than ever, feeding off Internet lingo and culture (from “clean girl makeup” swinging violently to the “mob wife” aesthetic), and fueling purchases. We can buy from websites, social media platforms, or even Viber groups. All these have been made possible, thanks to technology.
And as we happily add makeup brushes to carts and watch TikToks reviewing retinol serums, artificial intelligence, or AI, seems to be waltzing into the beauty scene like a mysterious but charismatic new stranger. Friend or foe? We all whisper wonderingly. Since the public launch of the language learning model ChatGPT by OpenAI, the world has been wondering how it will impact our lives.
But AI is much more than ChatGPT, and has actually been more present than we realize.
AR and AI
Before AI became popular, augmented reality (AR) was already starting to be integrated into beauty. “[When it first came out], I thought back then, ‘This technology is amazing,’” recalls communications expert Chescka Diaz. Diaz is the General Manager of FleishmanHillard Philippines, a global agency specializing in creative and strategic communications and PR, and she has worked on global beauty brands like L’Oreal, Avon, and Sunsilk.“I think it was really helpful, especially for people who don’t have the access or the time to shop in physical stores.” Especially during the pandemic, when people were unable to shop in-store, beauty brands scrambled to find ways to continue engaging with their fans and customers. She cited TikTok filters that allowed you to compare swatches against your skin, similar to filters by Fenty Beauty and Patrick Ta, to help you find your shade. “And eventually it wasn’t just makeup—you could check what you looked like with a different hair color, or what you looked like if you got a rhinoplasty,” she says. The “try before you buy” power that these AR and AI-powered tools allow customers to make better, more well-informed, and economical purchasing decisions.—Cara Gabrielle de Jesus
As early as 2018, L’Oreal had already acquired ModiFace, a Canadian company at the forefront of AR and AI in beauty, to help integrate their technology into their services. Since then, filters have only gotten better, and evolved to virtual try-ons. “Personally, I’ve tried the Sephora Virtual Artist AI service,” says Cara Gabrielle de Jesus, a product development and branding consultant in beauty and wellness. “It’s built into the Sephora app and allows you to have access to filters, swatches, tutorials and so much more.” She shared that while it isn’t always 100 percent accurate, the Sephora Virtual Artist helps her predict how certain shades will look on her skin tone. “It’s definitely helped me narrow down what shades to choose from and has made my makeup buying process more streamlined since we have limited access to brands in the Philippines,” she says. Her past experiences in the industry span Ever Bilena, Colourette, Hanjan (US), Baby Face (Singapore, Indonesia), and Geum (Singapore), and she also creates content on Tiktok (@helloimcaradj) and Instagram (@carasmakeuptalk).
According to de Jesus, the “try before you buy” power that these AR and AI-powered tools allow customers to make better, more well-informed, and economical purchasing decisions. Diaz agrees, pointing out that shoppers have gotten used to buying online. “We like the Internet,” she says. “We like the flexibility and convenience it offers, especially since we don’t have the luxury of time. People enjoy the many options and convenience in a single click.”
Board-certified dermatologist Dr. Coreen Copuyoc observes that technology is always changing and developing in her field. “We have new pharmaceuticals, cosmeceuticals, machines, and gadgets being presented to us all the time,” she says. She cites the development of virtual skin analyzers, as well as hair and scalp analyzers. We see the potential of AI-powered tools in aiding healthcare experts like Dr. Copuyoc in achieving higher accuracy in diagnosing skin conditions and tailoring treatments.
Prompts and Personalization
Then, with the emergence of generative AI, people discovered a new way to use AI in their beauty journeys. Generative AI refers to learning models capable of generating text, images, videos, and other content, after learning patterns, structures, and relationships from data. ChatGPT, a language learning model that focuses on text, may be the most popular, but there are others like image generators DALL-E (also by OpenAI) and Midjourney.
It sounded a little intimidating and too technical at first, but soon enough, people discovered that with a little bit of ingenuity (and the correctly phrased prompt), they could save time and resources with AI—even in beauty. With a few clicks, they could get information, answers, and advice readily, instead of having to scour through search results or scheduling a conversation with an expert. People started giving themselves a color analysis, using a color dropper tool from their phone to look for their exact skin shade from their photos, and asking ChatGPT what their “seasons” are according to their skin tone. This saved them a trip to a color analysis expert. Some people prompted ChatGPT to create a makeup routine and just followed it step by step. In a fun BuzzFeed News experiment, a writer used AI app Dream by Wombo to create AI art with his prompts (for his “cottagecore fairy” look, he inputted the prompt: “Cottagecore makeup look on a beautiful African American woman, brown skin, freckles, whimsical, iridescent, floral, glitter, unique, fairies, colorful, ethereal, digital painting, colorful mascara, MUA”), then tried his best to recreate the resulting photo on his own face. In a world of seemingly endless and overwhelming information, AI can help process and personalize all the options specifically for your needs and concerns. More and more, personalization is becoming the new standard for beauty brands and retailers, and AI can replace generic suggestions with precise, hyper-personalized recommendations based on their customer’s profiles.
Skincare content creator Jan Angelo Ong (@ongiel on TikTok and Instagram) is well-known on social media for his careful, well-researched, but relatable reviews and discussions, but most people don’t realize that he was a technology enthusiast before he got into skin care. “I love being an early adopter of new tech, and AI was no exception,” he shares. When they launched, he started using ChatGPT and Google Bard (now called Google Gemini) to organize his thoughts and help him write his skincare content better. “It’s also particularly helpful when you want to refine some ideas that you have when brainstorming,” he says. “I’ve even asked it to summarize and contextualize certain content from skincare experts I see online, which is such a timesaver!”
De Jesus also mentions how AI can help automate information and processes to help brands respond better, like chatbots for customer service (“Data shows that many brands who have utilized chatbots have successfully converted queries into sales,” she says) to targeted ads and messages. More and more, personalization is becoming the new standard for beauty brands and retailers, and AI can replace generic suggestions with precise, hyper-personalized recommendations based on their customer’s profiles. “As long as a brand is attuned to their audience base, it’s relatively easy to come up with more customized beauty or skincare routines for individuals based on their specific needs,” says de Jesus. In this year’s recent Viva Technology, Europe’s biggest startup and tech event, beauty giant L’Oreal unveiled plans for L’Oréal Paris Beauty Genius, an AI-powered personal beauty assistant that can give personalized diagnostics and recommendations.
A surprising way that AI contributes is through inclusivity in the industry. “There have been incredible steps forward in providing services to the disabled,” shares de Jesus. “Estee Lauder has pioneered a free voice-enabled AI service for visually impaired individuals, helping them in their makeup application process.” Another AI-powered service dedicated to inclusivity is SeeMeIndex, a platform that rates brands based on its consumer-facing inclusivity efforts.
Dangers of Deepfakes
However, as with any tool, the misuse of AI poses dangers, especially with regard to privacy and security. Dr. Copuyoc sums it up: “Cons [to AI] would be the rise of false advertisements, unreal expectations, and fake experts.” We’ve already seen how deepfakes have fueled the rise of these fake ads and experts. Deepfakes use AI from a deep-learning technology (hence, where the name gets “deep”) to fabricate fake images, videos, and even audio. At first, most of the implications were humorous: Pope Francis in that stylish white puffer coat. Checking what we would look like if our yearbook photos were taken in the 90s. There’s even a whole TikTok account dedicated to Tom Cruise deepfakes. But as the AI gets sophisticated, the results have become more seamless, making it harder to identify deepfakes from real content.
This has made the technology ripe for abuse, causing confusion and generating fake news with inauthentic videos. Some celebrities, creators, and even politicians (like the recently discovered deepfake audio of President Marcos ordering a military attack) are discovering their content and faces in fake advertisements. Content creator Dr. Alvin Francisco posted on his TikTok that he spotted a deepfake of himself on Facebook selling a natural treatment for muscle pain. (The account using the deepfakes has since been taken down.)
Ong has actually experienced having his content used in a fake ad, along with a handful of other skincare content creators and dermatologists. “A Facebook ad stitched together our reviews of different products, and made it seem like we were recommending this one product,” he recalls. “It was bizarre. Although it was obviously contrived, the craziest thing was people would message me about that product recommendation thinking that I really made it!” A waitress at a restaurant even came up to him and told him she bought the product because of that ad, not knowing it was fake. “I’ve tried reporting the ad and I’ve shared it to my community that it’s fake, but as far as I know, it hasn’t been taken down.” With some research, he learned it was done by a random company in Vietnam. Without knowledge of how to pursue any legal actions in another country, Ong felt helpless and had to let the issue go. Younger millennials or Gen Zs may be a little bit more familiar with identifying deepfakes or altered art, but older generations may not be as skilled, and are at risk for believing fake ads.
Dr. Copuyoc, who is also a content creator (@coreenmd on Instagram and TikTok), has cited that she has seen manipulation occur in the industry as well. “The only thing left to do is report and make a PSA (public service announcement) about it, so that the community may report with you,” she laments. “It’s sad that some platforms really take advantage of consumers. That’s why it’s important to educate and be mindful when purchasing online.” Ong agrees: “I’d be lying if I said I had the perfect safeguards for my content to not be spliced, but we’re at that transitioning point where these types of technologies aren’t regulated yet, so it is quite scary to think of.”
Younger millennials or Gen Zs may be a little bit more familiar with identifying deepfakes or altered art, but older generations may not be as skilled, and are at risk for believing fake ads. “Technically, the easiest way to safeguard content in this matter would be to use deepfake or AI detection services,” advises de Jesus. “But let’s be real, not many people have the means to do so as well as it is impractical,” she adds.
If it happens to content creators, it can happen to anyone. Diaz also reminds people to be cautious of how their images and likeness may be used, especially when one uses AI. Recently, Mark Read, CEO of WPP, the world’s biggest advertising group, was the target of a deepfake scam. Using a publicly available image of Read, scammers created a WhatsApp account and set up a Microsoft Team meeting with an AI-generated voice clone and YouTube footage to ask other members to solicit funds and get personal information. “His pictures were easily available online, so if you think about it, the people who use AI technology to upload their faces in [the apps that allow them to] try out makeup or outfits, they are more at risk for deepfake scammers,” says Diaz. “You can’t just ignore the possibility that it can happen to you.”
Humans vs AI
Aside from deepfakes, the use of AI also brings to question the value of human expertise and experience in the beauty industry. While we enjoy receiving personalized data from AI, there are fewer opportunities for humans, from beauty advisors in boutiques to facialists in clinics to actual dermatologists, to offer us their expertise and help. This, unfortunately, means many of their roles may become redundant in the future. At Viva Technology, L’Oreal Paris also unveiled plans for CREAITECH GenAI Beauty Content Lab to generate tailored and compliant content for their bevy of brands like La Roche-Posay and Kérastase. While this allows brands to create content faster, this may redundiate makeup artists, graphic designers, writers, and photographers who used to do these for them. We can see this happening end-to-end, from product development and research, down to purchase and fulfillment. Who, then, gets to share their creativity and expertise, and set trends in beauty, if there are fewer humans in the industry?
As an enthusiast of both skincare and technology, Ong remains quite hopeful and sees AI as a tool to help people do their jobs better. “I always tell people that the future is not AI replacing professionals, but AI working with professionals and making their jobs easier and more refined,” he says. Tools, after all, are just ordinary objects until they are wielded by a person, whose intent and skill put value and meaning into their use. “I don’t think we’re at that point that technology can replace experts,” he maintains. “AI is based on human inputs, too, so if you think about it, it needs humans and human expertise to thrive.”
The Future
From this point onwards, we can only expect AI to become better and more integrated into our lives, so it’s imperative that we prepare ourselves for that inevitable future. With people becoming more reliant on technology and demanding a more customized, resonant experience, beauty will only respond accordingly with personalized recommendations and content, supercharging their efforts with AI for speed, efficiency, and productivity.
“When it comes to using new technology, I think it’s imperative to always see that everything has positives and negatives,” says de Jesus. “I will never negate how new technology has made my life easier when it comes to giving back my purchasing power as a consumer. I can easily decide with a click what works for me or what doesn’t work for me. On the other hand, it opens up creators to the dangers of stolen content to be used as deepfakes.” She encourages everyone to take everything on the Internet with a grain of salt, and research before sharing or believing. “I know it’s easier said than done, but always be critical with the type of content you consume.” It’s the responsibility of the brands who are trying to use it or are planning to use it to educate their users and customers about the dangers of AI.—Chescka Diaz
Both as a consumer and a communications expert, Diaz understands and experiences how AI and technology are game-changers in the world of beauty and wellness. “I’m happy with what I’m seeing now in the beauty industry, to be honest,” she says. “But I also know that I have to be aware of the risks,” she admits. “Yes, AI is convenient and it gives people choices, but you have to be vigilant. You don’t have to try everything that’s given to you.” Personally, she hasn’t tried a lot of AI-powered tools because she sees the potential privacy risks, and always wants to be completely aware of how her data will be used. “Not all technology is good and useful,” cautions Dr. Copuyoc, and encourages everyone to be smart and wary before sharing their information and data, including photos.
For Diaz, we need a holistic approach when it comes to educating and safeguarding each other. That starts with the brands that provide AI-powered products and services. “It’s the responsibility of the brands who are trying to use it or are planning to use it to educate their users and customers about the dangers of AI,” she says. Instead of just selling products and services, brands need to clearly and creatively communicate both the benefits and the risks of using them, so that they are the first ones to protect their customers against any adverse events. “Of course, it’s a shared responsibility,” she adds. Consumers, content creators who have platforms, as well as brands who directly engage with their consumers—everyone needs to take AI seriously. We all need to learn more and share this knowledge and advice with each other, especially with those who are most at risk. “If you don’t know about AI and its dangers, you’re just going to fall into that trap. Who knows what’s gonna happen?” says Diaz.
Finally, we must always remember and value the uniqueness and importance of human interaction and experience in the world of beauty. AI is always exciting and convenient, but everyone still marvels at the imagination, creativity, history, and empathy of people, most especially those who have developed unique skills and expertise, as well as wisdom from experience and collaboration. “First-hand experience and listening to a trustworthy person with credibility is still the key,” says Dr. Copuyoc. Ong agrees: “As a skincare content creator, I’ve been exposed to people with skin issues and there’s a way to connect with them and nudge them in the right way that’s distinctly human,” he says. “And even more so with beauty! There’s a lot of subjectivity—not to mention, humanity—that comes with beauty, which can’t always be replicated by AI.”
We haven’t seen the last or the most the AI can bring to our makeup tables and cosmetic cabinets, but instead of being helpless bystanders, we—through our education, action, and participation—can help ensure that technology helps bring us a more accessible, convenient, and even inclusive future in beauty.
