The story of color cosmetics has always intertwined with tradition, cultural shifts, and scientific advancement. It begins in the ancient cradle of civilization, where makeup first adorned the faces of Egyptian nobility, around 6,000 BC, serving both aesthetic and protective purposes. This narrative took a dramatic turn in the 1920s, a decade marked by societal changes and the emergence of color cosmetics into the mainstream. Icons of the silver screen such as Marlene Dietrich and Greta Garbo didn’t just captivate audiences with their performances; they also set beauty standards that swept across the United States, transforming lipsticks and eyeshadows from novel indulgences into staples of the American vanity.
However, the beauty industry’s glittering facade hid a less glamorous truth. The pursuit of beauty often skirted dangerously with health risks, as manufacturers of the era employed harmful substances like lead in face powders and mercury in mascara, oblivious or indifferent to the dangers posed to consumers.
In contrast to those early, unregulated days, the modern landscape of color cosmetics is one of rigorous safety standards and innovative science. The evolution from hazardous formulations to products that prioritize consumer health without compromising on aesthetic appeal mirrors broader trends in public health and consumer protection activism.
Here we delve into the journey of color cosmetics and the scientific endeavors that have enabled a fusion of beauty and safety. It’s a chronicle of how an industry once fixated on the surface has deepened its focus, committing to the well-being of those it seeks to adorn. We talk to one of the leading makeup brands in the Philippines, Colourette Cosmetics, to help us explore the intersection of creativity, science, and safety that defines today’s beauty industry.
The Power of Pigment: A Deep Dive
What exactly is in our makeup today? Here, we get behind the ingredients used in color cosmetics. We’ve asked Colourette’s Product Development Manager, Engr. Cecile Ginete, to talk about the color additives and ingredients they use—plus, all the nitty gritty details and insights about how they develop their products.
FIRST THINGS FIRST, WE START WITH A CARRIER.
First, we’ll need to talk about the components of our cosmetics. To put it simply, cosmetics consist of a carrier and a color additive. Of course, there are other ingredients like preservatives and fragrances, but since we’re focusing on the color aspect of makeup, we’ll be focusing on these two categories. The carrier, as its name suggests, is the vessel that carries the colorant. For example, the main carrier in lipsticks would be wax and oil. This is what allows the product to glide evenly on your lips and spread the color.
“[Our] Colourtints products are formulated with isododecane as the carrier, which offers numerous benefits. Isododecane is known for its quick-drying properties, long-lasting wear, and enhanced color intensity. It also provides a non-greasy feel, and good spreadability, and is compatible with other cosmetic ingredients. Additionally, isododecane helps to reduce the heavy feel [cosmetics can give] and minimize feathering, making it an ideal choice for high-quality cosmetic products,” Ginete says. “Easy Matte Lipsticks, on the other hand, use dimethicone, a silicone-derived polymer, due to its unique properties and benefits, such as smooth application, moisturization, color enhancement, and long-lasting wear. It also creates a protective barrier on the lips, which minimizes smudging and feathering while providing a lightweight feel.”
NEXT, WE ADD ANOTHER MAIN COMPONENT: ORGANIC COLOR ADDITIVES
The color additives are what impart the color on the face, and they can be classified as organic and inorganic. Despite what its name suggests, organic color additives are mostly synthetic and come in a wide array of colors. The additives under this category are dyes and pigments. Dyes are typically oil- or water-soluble and have a transparent color to them, while pigments can be further broken down into lakes, carmine, and botanicals. “Easy Matte Lipsticks use both pigments and dyes in its formula. Dyes are soluble colorants that dissolve in the formulation. They impart color by evenly distributing themselves within the product which can sometimes stain the skin as well. The use of both pigments and dyes in the Easy Mattes allows for a variety of shades in the creamy, lightweight lipstick format that still gives a really good color payoff,” says Ginete. Some organic color additives are linked to health risks such as skin irritation, and because of this, this category requires certification from the FDA.
Meanwhile, lakes hold color and typically don’t bleed as dyes do. Carmine is a unique and strong shade of bright red derived from the cochineal beetle. It’s also the only red pigment that the FDA has approved for use around the eye area. Botanicals are color additives derived from natural sources like annatto, beetroot powder, and henna. Some organic color additives are linked to health risks such as skin irritation, and because of this, this category requires certification from the FDA.
AN ALTERNATIVE: INORGANIC COLORANTS
Inorganic colorants are either made up of insoluble metal compounds or are synthesized. While they don’t pose as many health risks as organic colorants, they are still rigorously tested for their heavy metal content. Now, they are no longer naturally derived because of safety concerns, but they can be produced in labs. Pigments primarily make up this category of additives and can be further split into iron oxide, manganese, mica, ultramarines, titanium dioxide, ferric ferrocyanide, and chromium oxide.
Iron oxide can develop different colors, like black, yellow, and red, while chromium oxide is an olive-tinted green. These oxides are synthetically produced in labs to prevent heavy metals from contaminating them. Manganese lends products its violet and mauve tones, although this additive is not allowed in lip products. Mica is an additive that adds luster to products, and you can often find it in face powders, eyeshadows, and lipsticks. Ultramarines make pink, blue, and violet, and while they’re not allowed for use in lip products in the U.S., they are allowed in products intended for around the eye area. Titanium dioxide is a white pigment that can lighten and add opacity to different products. It is also a common active ingredient in sunscreens. Ferric ferrocyanide is an intense Prussian blue pigment used in makeup, bath products, nail polishes, and hair dyes, although it is not allowed for use on the lips. Determining which ingredients work with the color additives in cosmetic products involves factors such as compatibility, functionality, safety, and maintaining product texture.
“Colourtints mainly use pigments in its formulation,” says Ginete. “Hence its ultra-pigmented shades and the unique tendency for the colorants to settle. This is why each bottle comes with the reminder to ‘Shake me up real good!’.”
THEN, WE TEST.
Creating cosmetics doesn’t stop at choosing carriers, color additives, and other additional ingredients. It involves a lot of testing to make sure the color cosmetics remain functional and stable. “This can be achieved by selecting stable pigments and appropriate binders, and conducting stability testing—understanding interactions with other ingredients, and pH considerations,” says Ginete. “By careful selection of the factors mentioned above, cosmetic formulators and product developers can create products that maintain their color and quality throughout their shelf life. Determining which ingredients work with the color additives in cosmetic products involves factors such as compatibility, functionality, safety, and maintaining product texture. It’s crucial to ensure that the chosen ingredients don’t negatively impact color stability, enhance the overall product, comply with regulations, and maintain a desirable user experience. This is done by hours and hours of testing.”
Brands like Colourette also have a creative process when it comes to developing shade ranges for their products. First, the Colourette team does market research—studying different skin tones and looking for gaps in the market. “The goal is to represent a wide range of skin tones to ensure the product can cater to all Filipina skin tones,” says Ginete. “R&D chemists and cosmetics specialists collaborate to provide a range of shades that accurately match different skin tones. This entails examining the depth, nuances, and undertones of various skin tones.” After a product is launched, Colourette continues to take in feedback from its consumers in order to continuously improve its shade range.
They then test their color cosmetics on different people with ranging skin tones, getting their opinions. Shades are adjusted based on the feedback, and Colourette collaborates with makeup artists, influencers, and beauty enthusiasts from a variety of backgrounds to get their thoughts on the products. After a product is launched, Colourette continues to take in feedback from its consumers in order to continuously improve its shade range. Based on the feedback they get, the brand may choose to expand the shade range to fill in the gaps they missed. “Environmental and ethical considerations are taken into account by Colourette when developing products and their shades, ensuring that sourcing, manufacturing, and testing are all carried out ethically.”
A NOTE ON SHOPPING FOR COLOR COSMETICS, SAFELY
In the U.S., the FDA heavily regulates which color additives can and can’t be used in cosmetics, and they are often characterized as D&C (drug and cosmetics) colors and FD&C (food, drug, and cosmetics) colors. When a cosmetics company produces lip products, the color additives they use must be FD&C colors.
The list of color additives permitted for cosmetic use is readily available on the FDA’s website, and they also outline whether or not the additives can or can’t be used on the eyes or lips. We often see disclaimers on different makeup products that some shades are not meant for use near the eyes. This is because they use color additives not permitted for use around the eye area, but are permitted for anywhere else on the face and body.
But despite these disclaimers, these products are usually marketed as eyeshadow products, with models wearing them on the eyes in campaign shoots and with packaging that looks exactly like how an eyeshadow palette should look. That’s why it’s important to be extra vigilant when it comes to checking disclaimers and reading ingredient lists, especially for eye and lip products. Some common additives to look out for are Red 28 Lake and Red 36 Lake, which can be found in pressed pigments and paints. Usually, color additives like this have been disapproved for use around the eye area because of problems as superficial as skin staining, but sometimes, they can also cause skin irritation and allergic reactions. It’s also important to remember, though, that any color additive and ingredient could cause a reaction depending on your skin—and especially around the eyes since that area is really sensitive.
On top of these, there are also other ingredients product developers are wary of. Ginete lists parabens, talc contaminated with asbestos, mercury-, formaldehyde-, and sulfate-skin irritants as ingredients to avoid when creating color cosmetics. Natural ingredients like coconut oil, lanolin, and cocoa butter are also a no-no due to them being highly comedogenic.
Ultimately, the world of color cosmetics is far from what it used to be. Now, we no longer have to worry about lead or arsenic poisoning and we can depend on regulatory bodies such as the FDA, the EU Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, and the like, to oversee that cosmetics brands stick to the safety regulations imposed on them. While there are still some color additives that could pose health risks when used incorrectly, we now have the power to become discerning consumers thanks to the accessibility of information over the web.
WHAT MAKES A SHADE UNIVERSALLY FLATTERING?
What makes a shade universally flattering? Engr. Cecile Ginete shares the criteria Colourette uses to determine shades that will look good on everyone.
- Shades with neutral undertones. Those that are neither too warm nor too cool often complement a variety of complexion tones. They don’t compete with the undertones of various skin tones.
- Shades with a moderate depth are often universally attractive. They may be adapted to a range of skin tones because they are neither extremely light nor dark.
- Subtle muted tones. Compared to highly bold or vivid hues, muted tones, which are slightly toned down and less vibrant, tend to be more generally attractive.
- Balanced warmth and coolness. Colors that achieve harmony on a variety of skin undertones are more likely to be those that strike a balance between warm and cool tones.
- Avoiding extremes. Extremely light or very dark shades might not be suitable for everyone because they contrast too sharply with some skin tones.
- Natural tones. Colors that resemble the colors of nature, including warm terracottas, soft pinks, and earthy browns, frequently have a wider appeal.
- Nude shades. For lip products and eyeshadow, neutral hues that match natural skin tones can be extremely versatile.
- Tested and approved. To ensure that they actually appear beautiful on a variety of skin tones, universally flattering shades frequently do thorough testing on people with diverse skin tones.
We’ve truly come this far and it can only get better from here. Below, we’ve rounded up Colourette’s best-sellers—from the most pigmented to the most long-wearing, the most-raved about and the most viral— for you to try and see for yourself.
Colourette Colourtint Multi-Use Lip Oil
P399, Lazada
Colourette First Base Everyday Skin Tint
P599, Lazada
Colourette Colourbounce Jelly-to-Powder Highlighter
P499, Lazada
Colourette Colourflick Graphic Eyeliner
P349, Lazada
