We’ve heard it all—glass skin, “Ulzzang” makeup, the K-Pop Idol look. These buzzwords dominate social media and continue to shape how we approach South Korea’s latest beauty trends. But if there’s one common thread across every tutorial and inspo photo, it’s the flawless base: minimal layers, zero creasing, and a luminous, lit-from-within finish.
As effortless as it seems, this look is the result of thoughtful, strategic techniques—and Korean makeup artists have truly cracked the code.
But what happens when you factor in humidity, heat, and the constant threat of sweat—especially in a tropical country like ours? Can we still expect the same results from traditional K-beauty techniques?
We explored these questions during a recent masterclass with K-style makeup artist Chuchie Ledesma, who adapts coveted Korean beauty techniques for Filipina features. With training from Seoul’s JungSaemmool Academy—founded by the legendary K-beauty artist behind many top idols—Ledesma brings expertise in both the signature skin-first aesthetic and more creative editorial looks. In this story, we break down her go-to techniques: easy, strategic tweaks you can apply to your current base routine.
Prepping Like a Pro
For K-beauty enthusiasts, one thing holds true: skincare always comes first. This skincare-first philosophy allows for fewer makeup products and a more natural, effortless finish—and the same principle applies when it comes to skin prep.
When it comes to this routine, here’s what Ledesma advises:
- Exfoliate: Begin by exfoliating with a cotton pad—swipe upward, then gently rub your nose in circular motions to remove excess oil and dry skin.
- Apply: Warm your serum between your hands, then swipe upward and pat it gently into the skin. Apply sunscreen the same way.
- Hydrate: Finish with a hydrating face mist. (Skip the primer—fewer layers mean less chance of product buildup.)
If you prefer layering moisturizer during skin prep, Ledesma recommends choosing a sunscreen with moisturizing properties. “Think of it as a two-in-one solution that simplifies your routine without compromising the results,” she says.
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Strategic Foundation Placement
Here’s where the meticulous techniques of K-Beauty start.
When it comes to foundation placement, Ledesma emphasizes the importance of mindful application—both in terms of where and how you apply the product. Instead of quick, sweeping motions, K-beauty favors a more deliberate and gentle approach.
Start by loading a round, flat brush with foundation, then divide your application into two zones:
- V-Zone (outer areas of the face with thicker, less mobile skin): Begin here to build the base.
- Star Zone (center of the face with thinner, more delicate skin): Use less product and blend upward for a seamless finish.
Use any remaining product on the forehead, ears, and décolletage to create a balanced, cohesive look.
So how does this pass the F-beauty test? Ledesma’s technique prioritizes minimal layering, reducing the risk of creasing or caking—especially in hot, humid climates. The result: a base that feels lightweight on the skin. And if you’re after more coverage? Simply apply a second layer using the same controlled method.
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Correct, Conceal, and Keep It Light
Echoing the “less is more” philosophy, Ledesma focuses only on areas that truly need coverage—be it dark circles or blemishes. She emphasizes the importance of precise application and using the right tools to avoid unnecessary layering.
- Under-eye area: Use a small brush—swipe to smooth, start from the outer corners and blend inward to create a lifted effect. For a thinner, more seamless finish, mix your concealer with a corrector to minimize creasing and product buildup.
- Spot concealing: Use a precise detail brush for targeted coverage and press the product in rather than swiping. If you’re covering raised blemishes, opt for a slightly deeper shade to help neutralize the bump and blend more naturally into your base.
When tone-matching, ensure the shade blends effortlessly into your foundation for a unified finish.
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Lock It In, the K-beauty Way
This step might come as a surprise: Ledesma completely skips setting powder and goes straight into blush. Why? This technique not only helps set the base but also minimizes the risk of a cakey finish—staying true to the weightless, skin-like look K-beauty is known for.
“Using a powder blush is similar to using a setting powder; the difference here is that you have fewer layers to worry about,” she shares.
To find your ideal blush placement, use two brushes as guides:
- One from the side of your nose extending outward
- Another from the corner of your lips angled up to the outer edge of your brow
Where these lines intersect is your perfect blush zone.
Apply the product lightly and blend toward the aegyosal—the soft, puffy area just beneath your lower lash line—for a naturally flushed finish. While many tend to apply blush around the temples, Ledesma emphasizes that in K-beauty, it’s all about intentional placement. The most natural flush appears at the apples of your cheeks—so it’s best to accentuate it by placing the blush there.
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Soft Sculpt
What we often call “contour” is referred to as shading in K-beauty, and it’s all about enhancing natural shadows rather than creating sharp definition. Ledesma notes that gray-toned shades are key for this step. While bronzers aren’t typically part of the Korean routine, you can still use a touch to avoid looking washed out.
To map your contour, use this brush alignment trick: Angle a brush from the end of your brow to your jawline. Then, with a fluffy brush, lightly pat your contour just outside those lines for subtle definition.
For the nose, gently swirl the contour from the alar (sides of the nose) up toward the eyebrows to create soft, natural depth.
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Soft Seals and Glossy Feels
A typical K-beauty routine skips both finishing powder and setting spray—Koreans prefer to retouch their makeup throughout the day rather than lock it in. However, Ledesma notes that if you’re prone to oiliness or sweating, it’s perfectly fine to keep those steps in your routine for practicality.
So what finishing touches should you try?
- Lips: For the signature blurred lip look, use an eyeshadow brush to softly line your lips, then pat the color in with your fingertips to diffuse and set the pigment.
- Melt the makeup: Finish with a generous mist of hydrating spray to let the makeup melt naturally into the skin, giving you that seamless, radiant finish.
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What to Keep in Mind
As well-thought-out as these techniques are, how you apply them should still come down to what feels right for you. Can’t imagine skipping powder? Lightly pat some onto your T-zone. Worried your base won’t hold up through the day? A spritz of setting spray can offer both reassurance and staying power.
At the end of the day, think of technique as a guide—not a rulebook. As Ledesma reminds us, “It’s just makeup! There are no rules, and you don’t have to be afraid of them. Simply do what works best for your features.”
