When it comes to anti-aging, retinoids are a true dermatologist-recommended ingredient, alongside sunscreen and vitamin C. And it’s no wonder every other skincare brand has leveled up their retinol game, it’s rather become the year’s much-talked-about wonder ingredient.
Touted as one of the most transformative active ingredients, retinoids have been known to rejuvenate the skin, as few other ingredients can, and are considered by many as the gold standard in skincare. With consistent application, it can improve skin texture, minimize the appearance of pores, address acne, and reduce the effects of premature aging such as fine lines and wrinkles.
On Tiktok, the hashtag #Retinol, which is a popular type of retinoid, has 5.1 billion views. And because of its efficacy in addressing a host of skin concerns, retinoids are now found in a myriad of formulations, and concentrations, with more and more brands adding this ingredient to their lineup.
Given their potency, however, retinoids can also cause mild skin irritation, especially in the beginning as one’s skin adjusts to the product. Some call this process “purging”, as the older skin cells are sloughed off, which can discourage newbies to the game. Proper use of the appropriate type of retinoid, however, especially with advice from a dermatologist, can minimize the side effects and maximize the benefits.
How Retinoids Work
According to dermatologist Dr. Jarische Ang (@thedermamamaph on Instagram), retinoids work by increasing cellular turnover, to regulate the renewal of the skin, and also lessen the clogging of pores. Because skin is refreshed and renewed, retinoids help reveal a brighter, more glowing complexion, with an improved texture. It also lowers sebum and oil production, making it beneficial in acne control, which is one of its main and original applications.
Dr. Ang also shares that topical retinoids stimulate collagen and elastin production, thus helping address fine lines and wrinkles, and other concerns attributed to photoaging. She indicates that the powerhouse ingredient may also assist with atrophic scars, defined as “scars that form a depression compared to the level of the surrounding skin”, from when the skin is unable to regenerate tissue.
Lastly, she says that retinoids inhibit the production of tyrosinase, an enzyme for producing skin pigment, thus helping fade the appearance of dark spots or hyperpigmentation.
The Different Kinds of Retinoids
The word retinoid is actually the umbrella term for a class of medications chemically derived from Vitamin A. Dr. Ang says this can be further classified into the active form (retinoic acid), or into one of its derivative forms, which needs to be converted into retinoic acid to be effective. The more conversions needed, the less “potent” it would be.
Tretinoin
In its purest form, there is retinoic acid or tretinoin, which was first approved in 1971 by the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) for the treatment of acne. Soon after it became available to the public, however, elderly patients using it to treat their pimples also reported noticing a general improvement in the condition of their complexions. This led scientists to start looking into the use of this ingredient for anti-aging, positive results of which were eventually verified by various clinical studies thus “supporting the efficacy and safety of topical tretinoin to treat photodamaged skin”.
Because of its potency, the use of tretinoin can be quite irritating to some, which is why it has to be prescribed by a dermatologist. Dr. Ang shares that the usual indications for tretinoin would be inflamed acne, as well as acne that cannot be addressed by over-the-counter retinoids.
Vitamin A Derivatives: Retinal, Retinol, and Retinyl Ester
There are three main types of retinoid derivatives used in skincare, depending on how many conversions would be required to transform it into retinoic acid. These ingredients are often found in OTC formulations, which can be used to level up one’s skincare regimen.
The first form is retinal, which only requires 1 conversion to turn into retinoic acid. The second is retinol, which requires a 2-step conversion to retinoic acid and is one of the most popular forms found in consumer skincare products. At times, the words retinoid and retinol are used interchangeably but actually refer to two different things. Both of these forms, according to Dr. Ang, can be used to address concerns related to premature skin aging.
The last is retinyl ester, which needs a 3-step conversion and is thus the mildest form. Because of this, however, Dr. Ang notes that this version of retinoid may be limited in efficacy.
Adapalene
Dr. Ang shares that there is also another kind of prescription-grade retinoid, which is adapalene. This third-generation retinoid has been approved by the FDA for the treatment of acne, but is less potent and irritating compared to tretinoin, and can be considered for those with more sensitive skin.
Retinoid Use 101
Given the many benefits of retinoids, it can be tempting to go all-in. However, because it can be quite potent, retinoids may also cause some side effects like skin irritation, dryness, or flaking. These mild symptoms, however, are meant to decrease after a few weeks of use, as the skin acclimatizes to the product.
Ang advises a slow but sure approach. “For beginners, I usually recommend a low potency retinol, or retinal, which has a lower risk of irritation,” she shares. Thankfully, many brands have introduced milder versions with lower concentrations of this active ingredient, as well as innovations such as intelligent delivery systems.
She recommends those new to the game can start with applying it 2 to 3 times a week, then slowly increasing the frequency as tolerated. With retinoids, a little goes a long way, and users are advised to apply just a pea-sized amount for the entire face, onto dry skin. As the skin gets used to the ingredient, products can then be applied daily.
Because retinoids decrease oil production, they can make the skin a bit drier. “This is the reason why it is important to moisturize when using retinoids. The popular sandwich method (moisturizer-retinoid-moisturizer) is a useful tip to prevent dryness,” declares Ang. Other ingredients that she thinks help with the skin’s moisture levels are hyaluronic acid, ceramides, glycerol, and niacinamide. Also, retinoids may make skin more sensitive to the sun, however, most experts advise using it at night and using a broad-spectrum sunscreen during the day.
With continued use, one can likely expect results in three to six months. Experienced users, who no longer experience any irritation and feel that effects have plateaued, may also opt to transition to higher concentrations, going up the “retinol ladder” so to speak.
Dr. Ang believes that even those with sensitive skin can use it, as long as they use the right one for their skin type, consulting with dermatologists to get the best advice. She cautions that pregnant women, however, should not use retinoids. Breastfeeding women may still be able to use it, with consent from their doctors.
Our Favorite Retinoids to Try
A retinoid product is a strategic addition to one’s skincare routine, and thankfully, there are a ton of options. From mild versions suited for beginners to more concentrated potions best for experienced users, here are some of our faves.

Kiehl’s Micro-Dose Anti-Aging Retinol Serum with Ceramides and Peptides
P4,500 via Lazada
Newbies can try this micro-dosed version of retinol, packed with ceramides and peptides to promote gentler skin resurfacing for a more radiant complexion.

Drunk Elephant A-Passioni Retinol Cream
AVAILABLE ON LOOK
At 1% concentration, this product would be great for more seasoned users and can help with fine lines, wrinkles, and sun damage. It’s also packed with nourishing goodies like marula, passionfruit, apricot, and jojoba oils, to help replenish moisture.

Dermalogica Age Reversal Eye Complex
P4,900 via Lazada
With microencapsulated retinol, this cream helps smooth away the visible signs of aging around the eye area. Likewise packed with niacinamide, ash tree bark extract, Vitamin C, peptides, and botanical extracts, it supports skin hydration and may reduce visible dark circles.

Paula’s Choice Clinical 0.3% Retinol + 2% Bakuchiol Treatment
P4,010 via Lazada
A combination of retinol, bakuchiol (a popular plant-derived alternative to retinol), and peptides, work together to support collagen-depleted skin and target fine lines, wrinkles, enlarged pores, and loss of firmness.

Sunday Riley A+ High Dose Retinoid Serum
P8,390 via Sephora
With a 6.5% concentration of stabilized retinoid blends, this serum is one of the more potent versions and would be best for advanced users. It helps reduce fine lines and wrinkles and also has CoQ10 to improve the appearance of UV-damaged skin. Hawaiian white honey, cactus extract, and ginger, meanwhile, help balance and soothe the skin.

Dr. Dennis Gross Advanced Retinol + Ferulic Intense Wrinkle Cream
P4,990 via Sephora
A cocktail of retinol, bakuchiol, rambutan, and ferulic acid come together to help build skin proteins, firming and plumping the skin from within. Its Phyto-Retinol blend of antioxidants and soothing botanicals soothes the skin and allows it to be used even in the daytime, combined with proper sun protection.

Biossance Squalane + Retinol Night Serum
P5,180 via Sephora
Time-release retinol and retinal, squalane, and powerful antioxidants help address the signs of aging with less irritation. The uniquely timed delivery mechanism allows the retinoids to penetrate more deeply into the skin, released gently over the course of 8 hours.

ZO Retinol Skin Brightener
P7,600 at Belo
From a brand known for cutting-edge skincare, this retinol-based solution improves the appearance of uneven skin tone for a more radiant complexation. Releasing retinol gradually allows for it its brightening benefits to be maximized, while the incorporation of bakuchiol soothes and calms the skin to minimize irritation. The product also comes in 0.25%, 0.5%, and 1% iterations, allowing one to level up with ease.

Naturium Retinaldehyde Cream Serum 0.05%
Available on Naturium.com
Formulated with a sustained-release retinaldehyde, which only requires one step to be converted into retinoic acid, this serum helps combat the look of fine lines, and uneven skin texture and tone. It’s one of very few available on the consumer market that’s made with retinal, which is stronger than retinol.
Amazing Retinoid Partners
With increased cellular turnover from retinoid use, the skin may be more sensitive to sunlight, making the use of sunscreens an even greater necessity. Moisturizers are also a great complement, hydrating the skin and helping protect it from irritation.

Anessa Day Serum SPF 50
P2,190 via Lazada
This sunscreen-serum hybrid hits two birds with one stone, protecting the skin from UV damage while hydrating it with hyaluronic acid and collagen. The pale pink tint gives complexions a flattering tone-up effect, while the featherweight formulation is easily absorbed and can be layered under makeup.

Bioderma Photoderm Laser SPF 50
P1,838 via DMARK BEAUTY
With its lightweight formulation, this sunscreen is a dream to use. It is also created with a compound derived from licorice extract to help inhibit tyrosinase, slowing down melanin production.

Saturday Skin Carrot + Niacinamide Moisturizing Cream
P2,500 via Rustan’s
Packed with antioxidant-rich carrot extracts to brighten and firm, and niacinamide to repair the skin barrier, this ultra-moisturizing cream nourishes the skin, while protecting it from environmental damage.

L’Occitane Immortelle Precious Cream
P4,200 via Rustan’s
Enriched with moisture-boosting hyaluronic acid and antioxidant-rich extracts from the immortelle flower, this silky cream melts into the skin, hydrating it and minimizing the appearance of pores.

Clinique Moisture Surge 100-Hour Auto-Replenishing Hydrator
P2,300 via Lazada
Made with aloe bio-ferment and hyaluronic acid, this gel penetrates deep into the skin, while a combination of aloe water and caffeine helps trigger the skin’s own rehydration system for continuous hydration.

MAC Hyperreal Skincanvas Balm Moisturizing Cream
P3,400 via Lazada
A fast-absorbing cream that smooths skin over time, it’s made with Japanese peony extract to help get naturally glowing skin. A cocktail of hyaluronic acid, ceramides, and niacinamide repair the skin barrier while plumping and moisturizing the complexion.