One of the world’s key capitals for beauty innovations is Japan, where the craziest cosmetic innovations and the most complex skincare formulations abound. Sunscreen, for one, has always been one of J-Beauty’s strong categories at top stores, from Don Quijote and Matsumoto Kiyoshi to department stores and drugstores. One is sure to find shelves and shelves full of sunscreens in different formulas, finishes, and textures.
Sun protection isn’t exclusive to the Japanese, for sure (although one may argue that the Japanese can be more religious about sunscreen application than Western users). Many other brands offer sun protection with various benefits, but what makes consumers reach out for Japanese-made sunscreen?
A Culture of Suncare
There exists a Japanese proverb: “A white complexion is powerful enough to hide seven faults.” This meant that no matter what a person looks like, as long as they have white, bright, translucent skin, they are considered beautiful. Since 300 A.D., centuries before Europeans had even set foot in Japan, white skin was already one of the beauty standards in the country, with people using lead-based white powder, or oshiroi, to whiten their faces. Throughout the different periods of Japan, like the Heian period, Muromachi period, Edo period, and Meiji period, white skin has been a consistent beauty standard—becoming less dangerous through the discontinued use of lead in face powders and more accessible to commoners and the urban population. Today, white face paint is used mainly by stage performers and geishas, or female performing artists, and having bright, pale, translucent skin remains the ideal beauty standard for many Japanese people, which is why they take suncare so seriously.
During the 17th century, Japanese people would use green tea leaves to create traditional sunscreen. The leaves would be powdered and then mixed with water to make a sunscreen paste that people would apply on their skin.
In the late 1990s, Japanese manufacturers began using UV-blocking fabrics to produce their umbrellas, making them an effective tool not only against rain but also against sun exposure and heat stroke.
Today, sunscreen brands invest a lot of money into creating innovative products that not only protect the skin from sun exposure but also deliver other skincare or makeup benefits. Japanese sunscreens often combine physical and chemical UV filters to protect the skin. The SPF of a sunscreen tells us how protected we are from UVB rays that cause burning), while the PA tells you how protected you are from UVA rays that cause aging—and Japanese sunscreens always have both sun filter ratings displayed on their packaging.
Layers of Protection
Sunscreens aren’t the only form of sun protection Japanese people utilize. Parasols or umbrellas were first seen in Japanese history from the 9th to 11th centuries. At first, they were used only for nobility and high-ranking religious figures, but during the 12th century, common people started using them to protect themselves from rain and sun exposure. During the Edo period, umbrellas became an everyday accessory.
Eventually, Western umbrellas were imported to Japan and became a luxury item. Japan started producing their own umbrellas, and in the late 1990s, manufacturers began using UV-blocking fabrics to produce their umbrellas, making them an effective tool not only against rain but also against sun exposure and heat stroke. This is why today, it’s common to see Japanese people carry umbrellas with them even when there isn’t the slightest chance of rain.
UV-blocking fabrics are also used to create apparel, and popular Japanese brands like Uniqlo and GU have their own UV protection collections. In fact, if you’ve ever been to Japan, you might have noticed people sporting long-sleeved shirts, sun hats, face coverings, and pants during the hottest of days. Even at the beach, some Japanese people will cover themselves head-to-toe in waterproof clothing.
Here Come The Suncare Innovations
An article published in 2023 stated that 85 percent of women and 36 percent of men in Japan use sunscreens, while a 2022 survey showed that only 17 percent of women and 8 percent of men in the U.S. use sunscreen most or all of the time.
Awareness of sun damage is deeply ingrained in Japanese culture. Even during the colder months, sunscreen is a key component of their skincare regimen.—Dani de Leon, Shiseido Philippines
“Notably, Japan was the first to introduce the PA rating system indicating the level of protection against UVA rays, which is why most Japanese sunscreens feature both SPF and PA ratings on their packaging,” says Shiseido Philippines brand manager for cosmetics and fragrance, Dani de Leon. “In addition to their pioneering rating system, Japanese sunscreens utilize newer, gentler filters that provide robust protection without irritating the skin. Their formulations are particularly admired for their non-greasy, non-sticky, and lightweight texture, which absorbs quickly—ideal for Japan’s hot and humid summers,” she adds.
Aging also plays a role in the importance of sunscreen within Japanese culture. “The startling fact that 80 percent of aging is caused by photoaging—UVA and UVB exposure that prematurely ages the skin—drives the high demand for sunscreens and other anti-aging skincare products,” de Leon shares. “Furthermore, awareness of sun damage is deeply ingrained in Japanese culture. Even during the colder months, sunscreen is a key component of their skincare regimen, offering both protection from harmful rays and essential moisturizing benefits,” de Leon shares.
Stringent Standards
When developing sunscreens, cosmetic companies must comply with Japan’s Ministry of Health and Welfare’s Standards of Cosmetics, which dictate the UV filters and the amounts allowed in cosmetics. On top of the strict guidelines that allow companies to guarantee the efficacy of their sunscreens, other factors affect each company’s research and development.
For example, Shiseido has focused its efforts on the efficacy of its sunscreens when exposed to environmental factors such as heat, sweat, and water. When exposed to heat, its sunscreens can “spread evenly in a film coating along with the UV protection ingredient and maintain a uniform state.” This means that the sunscreen can improve its UV protection effect thanks to its exposure to thermal energy. As an umbrella company, Shiseido’s prestige brands, like its namesake, and its premium brands, like ANESSA, have access to the research it’s done and can develop their products accordingly. ANESSA has been innovating its sunscreens since 1923, and it was also one of the first brands that included the PA rating on its product packaging. They also offer “formulations that contain 50 percent skincare ingredients and deliver protection that intensifies with heat, sweat, water, and humidity,” according to de Leon.
Meanwhile, Kanebo has been concerned with providing skincare benefits in its sunscreens. Its Veil Of Day, which won the @cosmo Beauty Award for Best Sunscreen in 2023, has a “lamellar structure of overlapping layers of oil and water” and forms a “water veil” that continuously delivers hydration to the skin for 12 hours.
Unparalleled User Experience
Even mass-market brands, which are wildly popular with Japanese consumers, have developed their formulations to address consumer pain points. Bioré, a Japanese skincare company, has been well-received in the local beauty scene since its Philippine launch in 2015. Through its sunscreens, the brand addresses the notion that sunscreens are sticky, leave a white cast, and generally feel uncomfortable on the skin.
The skin’s surface is usually uneven with the presence of pores and wrinkles. As a result, conventional UV products do not fully cover micro gaps in the skin. —Takuya Wada, KAO Corporation
Takuya Wada, senior marketer of health and beauty care Asia (Int’l) from KAO Corporation, shared that their hero product, Biore UV Aqua Rich: Watery Essence, “achieves both high UV protection and a lightweight feeling with watery comfort.” He adds, “Generally speaking, products with higher SPF have a heavier feeling on the skin, and this makes consumers hesitant to use them daily. But with Biore UV Aqua Rich, consumers get high UV protection with a light and refreshing feeling on the skin, making this suitable for daily use.”
Innovation-wise, Bioré’s Biore UV Aqua Rich: Watery Essence is formulated with the world’s first Micro Defense Formula. “The skin’s surface is usually uneven with the presence of pores and wrinkles,” Wada explains. “As a result, conventional UV products do not fully cover micro gaps in the skin. But the Micro Defense Capsule found in Biore Aqua Rich covers micro gaps on the skin’s surface, protecting skin evenly at a micro level.”
It’s easy to see how the companies behind Japanese sunscreen brands very much concern themselves with not only UV protection but more so, user experience. Many formulas tout lightweight textures and no white cast, and while many Western beauty brands are catching on to the trend, the sheer abundance and accessible price points of Japanese sunscreens are a testament to how important suncare is to Japan’s culture and how popular they are with both Japanese and non-Japanese consumers.
Our Suncare Essentials
Summertime or not, sun protection is essential—and yes, even when you’re just staying indoors. We’ve been told by dermatologists many times that sun damage is a major cause of skin aging (smoking comes next). The great news is, that we live in a time with better and more innovative suncare products that make it easier and more manageable to keep the suncare routine going. Below, we share some of our favorite sunscreens you can easily find in the Philippines, and some wishlist-worthy items you can pick up on your next trip to Japan.
Bioré UV Aqua Rich: Watery Essence SPF 50+ PA++++
P552, Lazada
As mentioned earlier, the Bioré UV Aqua Rich: Watery Essence has been super popular in the Philippines because of its high UV protection and lightweight, water-like formula. It’s also waterproof, sweat-proof, and makes for a great base under makeup.
Canmake Tokyo Mermaid Skin Gel UV Clear SPF 50 PA++++
P790, Lazada
This TikTok-viral sunscreen is known for the way it gives the skin an instant glow without a white cast. And despite its dewy finish, its gel-like formula makes it a great option for those who have oily skin.
ANESSA Perfect UV Sunscreen Skincare Milk SPF 50+ PA++++
P1,990, Lazada
This sunscreen is well-loved for how it blends high UV protection with skin-caring ingredients like citrus extract, tea-derived antioxidants, and collagen and hyaluronic acid. This sunscreen also moves with your skin, so no matter what facial movements you make, you’ll stay protected from sun exposure. De Leon even adds: “It is non-comedogenic, dermatologist-tested, and free from colorants, fragrances, and parabens. It’s gentle on the skin while providing robust UV protection.”
Shiseido Clear Suncare Stick SPF 50+
P2,250, Lazada
Need an easy way to reapply sunscreen? Try this sunscreen stick from Shiseido. It has an invisible formula that you can glide on before and even after makeup, leaving you with a protective veil that becomes more effective when exposed to heat and moisture.
Suncut Protect UV Spray SPF 50+ PA++++
Another great way to reapply sunscreen is by using a sunscreen spray, like this one from Suncut. A must-buy when you’re in Japan, this is formulated in a way that it won’t feel sticky or greasy on the skin, and it’ll help keep you protected from sun exposure for long periods.
Bioré UV Aqua Rich Aqua Protect Mist SPF 50 PA++++
While not yet available locally, you can find this water-like mist in virtually any personal care store in Japan. This sunscreen has an invisible formula that’s water-resistant, has strong UV protection, and leaves the skin with a dewy finish.
Allie UV Ennui Purple SPF 50+ PA++++
Tone-up sunscreens are popular in Japan because of their ability to brighten and color-correct the face even before any makeup steps are taken. This one by Allie, which is likewise another must-hoard when in Japan, covers dullness and pores and you can use it under your makeup or on its own as a natural base.
Nivea UV Deep Protect & Care Gel SPF 50+ PA++++
This body sunscreen by Nivea Japan prevents the development of blemishes and freckles caused by sunburn by protecting the skin with its super waterproof formula. It also helps reduce the appearance of fine lines and has a refreshing floral scent.
