Now more than ever, Asian sunscreens have both beauty enthusiasts and casual users in a chokehold—and for good reason. Their lightweight textures, high UVA and UVB protection, and non-greasy finishes make them ideal under makeup or on their own. So why are some of them banned from being sold in the U.S.? While you can purchase popular sunscreens from brands like Bioré, Beauty of Joseon, Round Lab, and Shiseido through official U.S. channels, a closer look at the ingredients list reveals that they’re not quite the same formulas sold in Asia—and consumers can tell.
Social media has been buzzing with comparisons between the Asian and American formulas of popular Korean and Japanese sunscreens, with many U.S. users feeling duped out of more sophisticated, skin-friendly options.
The Sunscreen Showdown: America vs. Asia
The main difference between Asian sunscreens and their U.S. counterparts lies in the UV filters they use. UV filters are the active ingredients in sunscreen that protect the skin from harmful ultraviolet (UV) rays. Some absorb UV radiation, while others physically block it from penetrating the skin.
In the U.S., there are only 16 approved UV filters, with just two—zinc oxide and titanium dioxide—considered both safe and effective by the FDA. In contrast, Japan has 34 approved UV filters, South Korea has around 30 and continues to approve more, and even the Philippines allows 33 UV filters in sunscreens. This broader pool gives Asian brands more flexibility to experiment with formulas that would better suit diverse consumer needs. U.S. brands, on the other hand, face challenges in innovating with such a limited set of approved actives.
This regulatory gap stems from how sunscreens are classified in the U.S. The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) regulates them as over-the-counter drugs due to their medical claims—like preventing skin cancer, sunburn, and premature aging. This means UV filters have to go through rigorous testing that can take years to approve and millions of dollars to fund.
For example, Dutch multinational company DSM-Firmenich has spent the last 20 years and $18 million trying to get bemotrizinol—a filter found in cult-favorite Asian sunscreens like Beauty of Joseon’s Daily Relief and Bioré’s UV Aqua Rich Watery Essence—approved for use in the U.S. The company is hopeful the FDA will finally greenlight the ingredient by the end of 2025. For context, the last time the FDA approved a new UV filter was in 1999, despite calls from Congress to speed up approval processes for new filters.
Meanwhile, in other parts of the world, particularly in Asia, sunscreens are regulated as cosmetics rather than drugs. While they still go through safety and efficacy testing, the process is faster and less restrictive. This allows Asian brands not only to develop more refined, skin-friendly formulations but also to bring them to market much more quickly.
Breaking Down the Formulation Gap
Given how strict UV filter testing is in the U.S., you would think their sunscreens would be better at protecting us from UVA and UVB rays. But that’s not necessarily the case. Ultraviolet rays are responsible for causing the most damage to the skin, with UVB rays responsible for causing sunburn and skin cancer and UVA rays contributing to premature aging—although they do also have a role in causing skin cancer.
The Sun Protection Factor or SPF on sunscreens indicates their ability to block UVB rays, with the number telling you how many times longer it will take for your skin to burn versus if you weren’t wearing any sunscreen. For instance, an SPF 50 sunscreen theoretically allows you to stay in the sun 50 times longer without burning than if you weren’t wearing any sunscreen. But it’s crucial to note that SPF doesn’t account for UVA protection.
Philippine Dermatological Society (PDS) board-certified dermatologist Dr. Riza Milante explains: “Sunscreen was initially developed as protection against UVB rays, which are the ones that cause skin cancer, especially melanoma. To give you a little background, to test for SPF, researchers have to apply 2mg [of sunscreen] per square centimeter of skin and then expose it to artificial UVB light. They calculate the SPF based on how red the skin gets.”
In the U.S., sunscreen labels typically emphasize SPF values and not much else. That’s because the U.S. doesn’t follow a system that can tell you how well sunscreen blocks UVA rays. Most U.S. sunscreens are labeled “broad spectrum,” which does indicate some level of UVA protection, but it doesn’t provide any specifics. According to an article published by NBC News: “Some studies have shown that they fail to meet the European Union’s higher UVA-blocking standards.”
On the other hand, Asian sunscreens include the protection grade of UVA or PA rating on their packaging. “PA, on the other hand,” said Dr. Milante, “was developed as a rating of protection against UVA rays. UVA contributes primarily to wrinkles and, to a lesser extent, skin cancers. Unfortunately for the PA rating, there’s no standardized label, unlike with SPF.”
The PA rating system was adapted from the Persistent Pigment Darkening (PPD) method, which measures how long it takes for skin to tan while you wear sunscreen versus how long it takes if you don’t wear sunscreen. The number of plusses (+) indicates how long it would take for you to tan, so a sunscreen rated PA+ would cause you to tan two to four times longer than if you weren’t wearing sunscreen, and a sunscreen rated PA++++ would cause you to tan 16 or more times longer than if you weren’t wearing sunscreen. Here’s a quick guide:
- PA+: Some UVA protection
- PA++: Moderate UVA protection
- PA+++: High UVA protection
- PA++++: Extremely High UVA protection
Japan was the first to introduce the PA rating system, which indicates the level of protection against UVA rays. This is why most Japanese sunscreens—and many others across Asia—feature both SPF and PA ratings on their packaging. Displaying the PA rating on the bottle has become the standard for Asian and European sunscreens—and it’s notably absent on U.S. sunscreens.
On Texture, Comfort, and Compliance
One of the most noticeable differences—something even beauty novices can pick up on—between Asian and American sunscreens is how they feel on the skin. As mentioned earlier, titanium dioxide and zinc oxide are the only UV filters considered both safe and effective by the U.S. FDA. As a result, they’re commonly used in American sunscreens.
The problem with this is that they are mineral sunscreens that create a physical barrier against UV rays on the skin’s surface, causing light to bounce back and appear white on the skin—also known as a white cast. This can be problematic for people with deeper skin tones and when using flash photography. Because they create a physical barrier on the skin, they also tend to feel thicker and heavier, making them harder to spread and less ideal under makeup. That said, they have their advantages—Dr. Milante recommends mineral formulas for people with sensitive skin, pregnant individuals, or children because of their long-standing safety profile.
On the flip side, chemical sunscreen ingredients like Tinosorb S and Uvinul—found in many Asian sunscreens—work by absorbing UV rays and converting them into heat, which is then released from the body before it can penetrate the skin’s deeper layers. Because chemical sunscreens are absorbed into the skin, they usually come in more lightweight, non-sticky formulas. This also means that people are more likely to reapply Asian sunscreens—and a sunscreen’s efficacy is very much dependent on frequent reapplication. “I am also a fan of elegantly made sunscreens using chemical filters like Tinosorb S or meroxyl for those who don’t have sensitive skin or any other issues,” says Dr. Milante.
The Future of Sun Protection
Since skincare exploded in popularity during the pandemic, people have become more discerning about the sunscreens they use—making it crucial for companies to invest in research and development to create more sophisticated, skin-friendly formulas. Dr. Milante also emphasizes that innovation plays a key role in making sunscreens more inclusive. “Most sunscreens are tested on people who have a Fitzpatrick skin type of 1 to 3 (think Caucasian and light-skinned Asians) because, in the first place, sunscreens are developed as protection against skin cancers. So innovation is important because people of color have disproportionately been underrepresented in health research and development,” she shares. “More elegantly developed formulations would also increase compliance in wearing sunscreen and help improve people’s skin health.”
Thankfully, here in the Philippines, we’re spoiled for choice when it comes to Asian sunscreens. But our friends over in the U.S. don’t have many alternatives. That’s why politicians like Congresswoman Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez have been encouraging Americans to write to Congress and advocate for faster FDA approval of newer UV filters. After all, if sunscreen is important enough to be regulated as a drug in the U.S., it would be in everyone’s best interest to get access to the safest, most advanced options available—especially if it means getting more people to protect their skin.
Asian Suncare, Simplified
So, what are the best sunscreens to use—and the most ideal ways to apply them? Dr. Milante shares, “Since it’s generally more humid in Asia, I would use a cream or lotion sunscreen, and then I would later use a stick or powder sunscreen for reapplication. Ideally, we have to reapply after two hours. But I know most people don’t—so at least twice a day is my minimum standard.”
It’s also important to take into account the SPF and PA rating of the sunscreens you use. “Personally, I look for a minimum of SPF 50, because most people don’t apply enough to get full protection. So it’s good to have a high SPF in case you’re under-applying sunscreen,” says Dr. Milante. “For the PA rating, my personal take is to use at least PA+++, or a broad-spectrum sunscreen if it’s made in the US.”
Want to try Asian sunscreens but don’t know where to start? Below are some of our top picks—widely loved, widely available, and easily accessible in the Philippines.
ANESSA Perfect UV Sunscreen Skincare Milk SPF 50+ PA++++
This innovative sunscreen creates a uniform protective layer that gets even stronger with heat, sweat, and movement. It also contains skin-caring ingredients like citrus extract, tea extracts, hyaluronic acid, and yellow flower extract to hydrate, nourish, and provide anti-aging benefits.
Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun: Rice + Probiotics SPF 50+ PA++++
P780, Lazada
This sunscreen helps nourish and protect your skin at the same time. It’s formulated with rice extract and grain-fermented extracts, which help moisturize and calm dry skin. It also has a radiant finish that will give you a natural glow.
Chu Chü Beauty Sun Defense SPF50 PA++++
P449, Lazada
This homegrown sunscreen can help brighten, soothe, and hydrate your skin, all on top of protecting it from UVA and UVB rays. It’s formulated with six UV filters, but it still feels lightweight and looks amazing under makeup.
Heimish Artless Glow Base SPF50+ PA+++
This product is a sunscreen, makeup base, and moisturizer in one. It has a shimmery pearl finish that can give you a lit-from-within look—perfect if you have dull, sallow skin.
Shiseido Clear Suncare Stick SPF50+ PA++++
P2,350, Lazada
For mess-free reapplication on the go, reach for this clear sunscreen stick. It’s moisturizing and very water-resistant, making it a great pick for outdoor activities like hiking or swimming at the beach.
