The language of beauty has always been youth. The vernacular is defined by firmness, clarity, smoothness, symmetry, and brightness, all hallmarks of a tender and vital young age. Despite the advancements in beauty representation and the media highlighting and celebrating the older demographic, the beauty industry still thrives on encouraging people to fight and reverse any signs of aging. The International Market Analysis Research and Consulting Group estimates the global anti-aging market size to be valued at US$71.6 billion in 2023 and foresees no slowdown in growth.
While aging comes with many concerns from health to mobility, the biggest fear women have is losing their looks. In a survey of women over 30 years of age, 36 percent revealed that they worry about aging mainly because of their appearance. This concern is shared by women of all ages, and it has slowly affected younger and younger women through the years. Even Gen Alpha tween girls (dubbed “Sephora kids” by American media) are now storming to their nearest beauty and convenience stores demanding to use K-beauty masks for moisture and actives like retinol.
But even as advertisements and beauty TikToks urge you to arrest signs of aging, these are hardly death knells or shameful scarlet letters. Some of the first women to tell you this are those who already have these manifestations. Dinna Vasquez, a Business Mirror columnist, freelance writer, and media consultant, is turning 61 this year, and while she is a passionate beauty enthusiast, she seems to have no qualms about talking about aging: “I have jowls and a gazillion chins. I walk slower. I have gray hair now. Oh, and less hair.” But in the same matter-of-fact, nonchalant way, she shares that she watches K-pop concerts, likes Sanrio characters, and loves wearing lip tints and glosses. I just wish society didn’t have these notions of what old ladies should and shouldn’t do when they’re, well, ‘old.’—Dinna Vasquez, 60
“I noticed the changes in skin texture,” says Febes Catalina Temporaza Aranas, a 67-year-old and dean at the San Beda University College of Nursing. “My skin got drier and there is more sagging and wrinkles.” But it wasn’t just the years that brought on these changes: “I had four pregnancies (one via C-section) and a hysterectomy, which brought on a lot of changes not just physically, but also in my health.” Nevertheless, she has never been afraid of aging. “I am perfectly happy with how I look,” she declares. “I know that I as a younger woman look leagues different from my current appearance now, but I still get complimented by people of different ages. I always see that as an accomplishment—to live this long, rather than be ashamed of it.”
Meanwhile, Myrza Sison, a motivational speaker, podcaster, and certified executive coach, still gets taken aback when she realizes she’s nearing 60. “I think the pandemic shocked me because we had more time to look at our faces,” she says. She would look in the mirror and notice a jowl or a laugh line. “Where did these all come from?” she would ask incredulously. She admits that back in her 30s, she was adamant about growing old “naturally,” but it’s different now that she’s 57 and seeing each new wrinkle. “It may just be minimal, gradual, and incremental changes, but I realized that [it also feels like] you’re losing your identity bit by bit,” she points out. “But, it’s the identity of your younger self.” She’s starting to let it sink in and is slowly coming to terms with it. “The more you get used to something, the more you can embrace it,” says Sison.
“I embrace these signs of growing old,” echoes Vasquez. “They’re inevitable.”
“An Inevitable Biological Process”
Wrinkles, jowls, white hair. While people spend so much time and money trying to keep them from coming, the truth is, there’s nothing to be done. “When we talk about aging, one has to understand that aging is an inevitable biological process,” says Dr. Mary Ann Rueda-Santos, a board-certified dermatologist with further training in dermatologic surgery and laser, and a fellow of the Philippine Dermatological Society. At a physiological level, our bodies are impacted by cumulative damage in our cells and organs that naturally accumulate over time, causing them to function less. While most people focus on external, environmental factors like UV damage and pollution that cause extrinsic aging, intrinsic aging refers to our genetic predisposition to age and this cannot be avoided.
Still, the physical manifestations of both intrinsic and extrinsic aging are the same. Generally, aging skin is more susceptible to dryness, more fragile and sensitive, and even more prone to bruising, because it is less efficient in secreting oil and retaining moisture. “Our glands no longer function as they used to,” says Rueda-Santos. We also see a decline in collagen and elastin production, which gives our skin structure, elasticity, and firmness. On top of this slow degradation, our bodies are no longer able to produce them as quickly or efficiently as before.
Because our skin loses moisture, structure, and elasticity, wrinkling and sagging occur. Of course, aging can also affect hair, nails, and even bone structure, but it’s in our faces and necks that we tend to focus on as they’re the first things we see in the mirror.
Hormones play a significant role as well. Rueda-Santos talks about how menopause removes estrogen’s protective effect over women’s systems, and this is why they often experience a steep and sudden expression of aging attributed to their 50s. Women lose 30 percent of their collagen within the first five years and then continue to lose 2 percent every succeeding year. Much of the language used by anti-aging brands and products is quite combative, inviting you to “defy” or “fight” signs of aging.
Vasquez has observed how these changes are starting to happen for her: “My skin [has always been] pretty good but as I got older, I started to have fine lines and my skin became more dehydrated,” she says. “Even if you enter your senior years, your skin will continue to change and shift year after year,” says Aranas. “As I get older, my wrinkles increase, my skin continues to sag, and my hair greys a lot faster.”
But neither of them is bothered and has accepted that aging is a part of life. “I just wish society didn’t have these notions of what old ladies should and shouldn’t do when they’re, well, ‘old,’” says Vasquez. “People like to say I don’t look 60 and I wonder, what does 60 look like to most people?”
Sison agrees that society unfortunately still has ageism wired within. As a former model and a former editor-in-chief of female-oriented publications like Cosmopolitan Philippines, Marie Claire, and Female Network, she has witnessed how we have all had to subscribe to a certain ideal in beauty and fashion. “The beauty ideal was a supermodel!” she says. “It’s just the body of an adolescent girl, it’s not a woman’s body or face. And this is the ideal used to sell, even aging products!”
Sison cites supermodel Paulina Porizkova, American actress Andie MacDowell, and Italian actress-model Isabella Rossellini, who are in their 50s, 60s, and 70s respectively and have all revealed their gray hair and wrinkles, but aren’t getting endorsements in beauty. In fact, Isabella Rossellini had been the world’s highest-paid model when she landed an exclusive deal with Lancôme in 1982. But after working with them for 15 years, she was fired for being too old—at 42 years old. (Thankfully, Rossellini got re-hired by Lancôme in 2016, with a female and empowering CEO at the helm.) “We have to be part of the change,” stresses Sison. She also points out that a double standard exists between men and women. “When they get middle-aged, men are ‘silver foxes’ with salt and pepper hair, and women are just like…grannies.” Aging seems to impact women more harshly, deeming them frumpy, tarnished, and irrelevant.
Aging Well Starts With Good Habits
Much of the language used by anti-aging brands and products is quite combative, inviting you to “defy” or “fight” signs of aging. Instead, we should consider embracing and managing the way we grow older. “When people come in, I always start with trying to give them a mindset that aging really happens,” says Rueda-Santos. It’s a surprisingly hard pill to swallow, but while you cannot reverse the process, you can understand it and take action so you can be confident in your skin. “You can be allowed to age in whatever way you want,” she emphasizes. You can choose to let your fine lines show if that’s what makes you happy and feel confident. But embracing aging does not mean letting yourself go. It’s foreseeing the inevitable changes in your body, and understanding how you can always be your best, most vital self in all stages of your life.
When it comes to aging well, before looking for a product or treatment, Rueda-Santos emphasizes that keeping healthy is the key: eating a balanced diet, exercising regularly, avoiding stress, getting quality sleep, and maintaining other good lifestyle habits. Aranas agrees that paying attention to her diet has helped her a lot through the years. “Not just because it benefits my skin, but also how it benefits my energy, my age-related ailments, and the routines I still pretty much enjoy,” she says.
When it comes to skincare, Rueda-Santos is quick to remind people that regimens and recommendations highly depend on your skin type and lifestyle. Just because it works on someone you saw on TikTok or someone who you think aged well means it will have the same effect on you. Personally, she recommends products without too many chemicals, and her top two requirements are a good sunscreen, which blocks damaging UV light, and a moisturizer, which can boost hydration and moisture.
The Next Step—Targeting Collagen
“But one has to remember that creams can only do so much,” Rueda-Santos says. She points out what she said about collagen loss: We degrade collagen daily, and then our body stops producing as much. The wrinkling, sagging, and drooping caused by collagen loss are the signs that usually annoy people the most. “You can begin to incorporate possible treatments that a dermatologist can offer to delay the aging process by stimulating more collagen production,” she says. She names a few: chemical peels, microdermabrasion, and exfoliation help control pigmentation and breakouts as well as stimulate collagen. Further down the line would be injectible skin boosters, then energy-based treatments like radio-frequency (RF) or ultrasound treatments. “Think of it as an investment in trying to bank collagen,” she says. Knowing that your collagen levels continuously decrease, it’s helpful to think of these treatments and skincare as savings you put aside so your body can “withdraw” confidently as time goes by. “The things I do for beauty are less about chasing after my youth, and more for self-care and feeling good.”—Myrza Sison, 57
Other treatments like Botox and volume fillers are injectables that are more cosmetic in nature, replacing or filling in fine lines and wrinkles, but some people explore them if they are bothered by signs of aging. “I personally have tried fillers and Botox a couple of years ago and liked the results,” says Aranas. She’s open to getting them again, but it’s not a priority for her. With so many things to do with her family and her career as an educator, it falls by the wayside, but she believes if one can afford and keep up with treatments then it’s definitely okay.
Vasquez has done Botox and Sculptra–a bio-stimulatory injectable that helps stimulate collagen production to smooth wrinkles and improve skin tightness–and has only done so after she turned 60. “I also had Rejuran for my eye area recently,” she shares about another injectible skin booster with polynucleotides harnessed from wild salmon DNA, also known to boost and hydrate skin. “These aren’t things I would do regularly but they helped.” One thing she does regularly is weekly scalp corrective treatments at Svenson, where she has also had NexoHair, a treatment that harnesses exosomes to stimulate hair growth and rejuvenate the scalp, done three times.
“The things I do for beauty are less about chasing after my youth, and more for self-care and feeling good,” agrees Sison. She has explored energy-based treatments, from Thermage to Sofwave, and has recently become an endorser for Ultherapy for the dermatology clinic Skin 101. She hasn’t done Botox as she doesn’t see any crow’s feet or the “11” lines between the eyebrows, but she is beginning to see her laugh lines. Her biggest annoyance is the appearance of eyebags, which she notices when she sees herself in photos or videos so when she does get treatments, she tries non-invasive ones that address that specific concern. According to Rueda-Santos, eye troughs are one of the earliest places to see age-related changes. Because the skin is so thin, the loss of collagen causes the eyes to settle back into the eye sockets, making the eyes appear sunken.
It’s good to start these treatments early, but it’s also definitely never too late. “Even in your 60s, there are positive effects!” says Rueda-Santos. “But we have to manage expectations, of course.” She describes how patients in their 70s still enjoy getting energy-based treatments, and while they don’t end up looking like 16-year-olds, they achieve good skin tightness in their faces and decolletage. Older patients will most likely need these treatments more often though, which also usually have to be more targeted.
Trust The Experts
If it sounds a bit complicated and overwhelming, this is where a dermatologist can come in. Rueda-Santos always asks for a patient’s top aging concern, then proceeds to customize a regimen based on their lifestyle and expectations. “What kind of ‘aging’ can you live with, and what skin care regimen and lifestyle habits can you adhere to?” she asks them. A trusted dermatologist can look at the pathology behind your concerns and give you science-backed solutions, but should also recommend a routine that the patient realistically can adhere to.
Sison agrees. “My eureka moment when I started modeling was when [model] Tweetie [de Leon] told me she went to a dermatologist, who at the time was Dr. Vermen M. Verallo-Rowell (of VMV). When I went to her, that’s when I realized, it’s really [all about] simplicity and good ingredients.” She learned to stick to the basics and keep an uncomplicated routine while keeping her skin as clean as possible. “Working hand in hand with the derma guides you through your skin life and helps you sift through what’s out there,” she says. “Keeping that medical knowledge really helped me navigate the changing effects in my skin as I grew older.” In her job as an editor and journalist, she was exposed to a lot of beauty products and trendy ingredients, but she always focused on the science behind it instead of hype, marketing, or packaging. She remains very discerning about her own routine. Aging is not a disease to be cured.—Dr. Mary Ann Rueda-Santos
Rueda-Santos also stresses the importance of giving products and treatments time to work. She’s seen too many patients expect overnight results, or change regimens completely when they don’t see improvements in a few days. “We have to give some time for your skin to regenerate, then everything follows,” she says.
So You’re Older—Now What?
Rueda-Santos reminds us not to be afraid of aging. “Aging is not a disease to be cured,” she says. “It’s a process that one can optimize to work for you.” You can modify the way you age through good habits, thoughtful skin care, and targeted procedures. “It’s a step ladder,” she reminds us. “You have to make sure you’ve got the basics down before you jump into something invasive.” Of course, your own commitment, consistency, and participation play a great role in it. After all, the best routine is the one you can—and want to—stick to. “Healthy aging is not just about aesthetics, but a healthy lifestyle,” she adds.
When asked about how women should deal with getting older, Vasquez also recommends a simple, straightforward regimen, very similar to what Rueda-Santos recommends: “Wear sunscreen (even at home), get that Botox or Ultheraphy or whatever it is that you want to get, use a rich moisturizer day and night, and—this is really true—drink lots of water.” She continues to wear sunscreen indoors and has switched to hydrating toners and richer creams, even if wrinkles aren’t a problem for her yet. I don’t really think trying to ‘look young’ is at the top of my life priorities.—Febes Catalina Temporaza Aranas, 67
Sison also keeps it mega simple, sticking to a very minimal regimen based on what her dermatologists recommend. Unlike Vasquez, she doesn’t use sunscreen and only uses moisturizer when abroad. However, she has always avoided the sun and doesn’t smoke or drink. “I make sure to remove my makeup completely,” she says. “I don’t sleep with makeup on.”
Aranas encourages women to stick to a routine that works for them. “We all have unique skin concerns, even as older women, so if you are used to tailoring a good routine in your youth, it won’t really be that hard when you get older,” she says. Other than that, she also encourages daily and regular movement (even if it’s not gym-related) and prioritizing mental health. “As we get older, we lose energy,” she says. “I don’t want to waste what energy I have left over stress or toxicity!”
From these women, good, healthy lifestyles plus simple, uncomplicated—but consistent—skin care regimens have helped them age well, and interestingly, there was no huge change or shift when they advanced in years save for a few minor updates and upgrades. “When I was younger, my skincare was what I could afford,” recalls Vasquez. Now that she’s older, she can invest in brands like Shiseido and Drunk Elephant.
“My daughters have seen me go through my morning and night routines and I don’t think it’s anything over the top,” says Aranas. Aside from keeping her skin clean and prepped, she now focuses on adding moisture, instead of “eliminating wrinkles.” “I definitely think of moisture aside from wrinkles, I feel like we focus too much on wrinkles!” she chides. She’s also gotten her eyebrows microneedled (“My sparse brows in my youth have disappeared in my old age!” she complains) and continues to color her hair. “Aside from that, I pretty much accept that aging is part of my life,” she says. “I don’t really think trying to ‘look young’ is at the top of my life priorities.”
Forever Young In Mind And Spirit
In fact, none of them are trying to bring back their teenage selves. “You can’t look 18, 20, 30, or 40 when you are 60,” says Vasquez. “You will grow old. But you can still be beautiful.” Beauty, for her, is being confident, loving yourself, and living life with grace and kindness.
“It’s beyond using products, it’s also about self-improvement,” agrees Aranas. Even with four children all grown-up and nine grandchildren, she remains a believer in always being active (“I am always on the move and outside my home!” she declares), nurturing your mind, and exuding confidence. “I think a calmer and happier sense of self radiates through your appearance.”
“I think it’s really the spirit that doesn’t age and we should keep it youthful,” says Sison. One of her “beauty secrets” is having a group of friends who are all half her age. While she likes to joke that she still thinks she’s 26, she truly believes that being active socially with all age groups keeps her from being and feeling dated. “Don’t just stick to the bubble of your age group,” she advises. “It really ages your mindset, and you tend to not be open-minded about what’s going on in the world. We need to keep abreast, so we’re not stuck in old ways and old attitudes.”
One of those old attitudes is comparing yourself and others to an unrealistic standard of youth. “I try to call people out if they make disparaging comments against women who ‘weren’t able to maintain themselves’ just because they’re older,” says Sison. “But it’s because we’re measuring them against their younger selves! I always say, ‘They look great! I’ll take it!’” She encourages everyone, regardless of their age, to champion other women and avoid perpetuating an ageist perspective. Personally, she has also tried to change the way she speaks about aging, stopping herself from throwing out negative terms like “battling the ravages of time” or joking about how she and her friends are “Thundercats” (referring to the 1980s cartoon used in Filipino gay lingo that means ‘matanda,’ ‘tanders,’ or of old age).
Similarly, in 2017, iconic beauty publication Allure declared that they would no longer use the term “anti-aging,” but it goes beyond vocabulary. Perhaps it’s time to remove the “anti” feelings that often come with aging. Instead of defining beauty in terms of youth, these women encourage us to discover the unique beauty and confidence that come with self-acceptance, ease with one’s self and skin, and a life well-lived. After all, as Aranas says she always tells her daughters: “Growing old is a privilege, not the end.”
YOUR PRO-AGING ARSENAL
There may be no miracle products that can stop aging, but a thoughtful regimen for your own skin type, concerns, and lifestyle will keep your skin healthy and beautiful as the years pass. Dr. Rueda-Santos walks us through the basics of what you’ll need to take care of yourself at any age.
Gentle Wash
Focus on gentle facial washes that prepare your skin for the next steps in your skincare. Dr. Rueda-Santos cautions against active- or ingredient-packed facial washes as some may hinder your next products from working rather than prepare your skin for the next step. “You don’t want so many things going on in your skin, which will just make it more irritated,” she cautions.
Cetaphil Skin Cleanser
P565, Lazada
Celeteque Hydration Facial Wash
P156, Lazada
Sunscreen
Sunscreen will always be Rueda-Santos’ top recommendation to take care of one’s skin, as UV rays can cause skin damage. She even encourages people to continue wearing it inside the house, as often, UV rays can penetrate windows.
Anessa Perfect UV Brightening Sunscreen
P1,490, Lazada
Shiseido Global Suncare The Perfect Protector SPF50+
P3,450, Lazada
Moisturizer
Dryness is one of the top causes that make the skin less elastic, firm, and resilient. “The capacity to heal or repair itself is not as good as when we were younger,” says Rueda-Santos. A good moisturizer helps the skin retain moisture, improving the appearance of lines and wrinkles.
Happy Skin Hyaluronic + B3 Boost Water Cream
P999 at Happy Skin
Clinique Moisture Surge 100-Hour Auto-Replenishing Hydrator
P2,350, Lazada
Actives And Antioxidants
When it comes to serums or creams, Rueda-Santos emphasizes that the gold standard is retinol—but “be guided accordingly,” she reminds. Meanwhile, antioxidants like vitamin C, niacinamide, and ferulic acid reverse or prevent the damage that free radicals wreak on our cells, causing aging and illness. “Vitamin C, for example, is not only an antioxidant and prevents free radicals, it also brightens your skin and helps collagen formation,” she says.
Drunk Elephant A Passioni Retinol Cream
P4,650 at Look At Me
Paula’s Choice 10% Niacinamide Booster
P3,150 at Sephora
